Oh A-Kilting we will go!

[Will Gamwell]

So aside from several sewing projects that I have either begun or at least bought fabric for, I have a hand-me-down kilt from the last couple of years that just wasn't right.

It was originally for someone larger than I, yet the top of the pleats were only sew down about 4-5 inches.  The apron was also way to big.  The overall look of the thing wasn't appealing.  So I took it upon myself to unstitch the entire thing and start from scratch.  Washed & Ironed the fabric.  I originally envisioned using box pleats to redo the kilt, but I only had 100 inches to work with.  So I used the same 1.5" pleats that were originally in it.  The changes I made were that the top of the pleats are going to be sewn down 8 inches.  The pleats go in opposite directions from either side and meet in the middle of the back.  I pretty much have it all pinned, ironed and ready to sew.  But I have two minor problems.

First some advice from those more experienced than I.  What is the best way to go about tappering the top of the pleats to go from the widest part, up to my waist?

Second.... I need to find time to go to a friends and borrow a sewing machine.  Using the serger at home wouldn't be a good idea at all.

Sean

[Tipsy Gypsy]

Honestly? Find a reputable kiltmaker, get the boatload of measurements you need to have it fitted right, and send it to them. I've had professional costumers tell me they wouldn't tackle a kilt  .

Good luck, whatever you choose.

[Will Gamwell]

Yes, Honestly.  I know of several places to get a fantastic kilt made.  The whole point is to get myself back into sewing and not spend extra money that could be better spent elsewhere. 

I have the fabric already and thread a-plenty.  Everything up to this point has been remarkably easy.  I have spent a total of a half an hour on it thus far.  Even though it is only pinned together at this point, it looks great.

The remainder of the sewing that I have to do is easy.  The exception is the tappering.  Something I have never done before.

Sean

[sealion]

These are the instructions I used to make my husband a kilt: http://www.scottishdance.net/highland/MakingKilt.html
I didn't find it all that difficult to do and I stitched the pleats down by hand. The mistake that I did make was that I used othick/bulky of a wool fabric so that it adds too much to his girth and doesn't look quite right. I plan to use the same instructions to make another kilt of thinner wool.

[sealion]

To taper from waist to hip I made every third or fourth pleat wider at the top. It still looks the same on the outside, you only see the difference on the inside.

[Tipsy Gypsy]

I may not have been very clear. Kilts can be "remade", kiltmakers do it all the time. The cost shouldn't be nearly what purchasing a kilt would be, since you'd be providing the fabric already. I'd at least contact a few to inquire about their charge.

[Tim T]

Here's a DIY link for ya-
http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/x_kilt_sew_your_own-t20085/index.html

It's from Xmarksthescot.com.  It's a VERY detailed .pdf of how to make your own modern/casual kilt (like Utilikilt).  It's got a lot of info about how the tapered pleats are made.  I must admit that I don't exactly follow how everything goes together- this is on my future project list, but I've got a few other things to get made before I can work on the kilt.  I was planning on making a quick partial kilt out of some cheap fabric to get the whole pleat making process down.

I hope this is some help to you.  Good luck!

[Will Gamwell]

Thank you sealion and Tim.  The links look like they will be very helpful. 

Tim,
The pleating wasn't very hard at all.  then again I had the benefit of a plaid pattern that was spaced perfectly for the pleating.  If I were to use a duck cotton such as in the X-Kilt pattern, I would definately be using a marking pencil to create the lines, then pleat & pin one at a time.  Good luck.  I think I may attempt one of those myself.

sealion,
Do you think the tappering you used would work in the reverse?  From the bottom of the sew-down portion of the pleat to the top?

Tipsy,
I apologize.  I was using my Smart Phone to post that message yesterday afternoon.  Most days I firmly believe it is smarter than I.  I know where to get kilts, and where to get kilts made.  I just fall into the category of "Do It Yourselfers".  I had the fabric, had the tools and have access to a sewing machine.  Being that it was a hand-me-down, it is something I wanted to try.  From all I can tell at this point, at the worst it will look better than it did previously.

Sean

[escherblacksmith]

whilst we are at it, many folks at Xmarks the scot have made their own, and a number of professional kiltmakers float through there as well.

do a search and you should find all the answers you need and then some.

Good Luck!

[Will Gamwell]

So I am noticing.  Lots of great looking kilts from what I've seen.  I have ran across the site before and lurked as a guest for some time. 

Thanks,
Sean

[sealion]

sealion,
Do you think the tappering you used would work in the reverse?  From the bottom of the sew-down portion of the pleat to the top?


Sean

I suppose it would but I'm thinking maybe I didn't explain it well. lol
I made some of the pleats deeper at the top waist end of the pleat so that the kilt ended up smaller at the waist than at the hip. I don't see any reason why you couldn't do the opposite and make the pleat shallower at the top so that the kilt would flare out and be bigger in the waist than in the hip if that is what you need.

[Will Gamwell]

Oh!  Duh!  Sorry, not enough coffee in me when I read your post.  I see exactly what you were saying now.  Thanks!

[Tipsy Gypsy]

Good Luck, Rafe, you're braver than I! Post some pics when you're done, k?

[Will Gamwell]

Brave...Foolish...it's a fine line that separates the two!   

I most definately will.  I am hoping to have it completed on Sunday evening.

Sean

[Tipsy Gypsy]

So, how's that kilt comin' along?