Need coaching on tall hat please...

[amy]

OK.... so I dig out my copy of Tudor Tailor and I start looking at all the pictures and patterns for the hats.   Just finished my daughters but wanted something very different for myself.  I have always wanted a tall hat and thought that what I see at most hat shops at faire are not always as I see described in the books.   I copy out the pattern.  Cut it in poster board and figure I will put together a mock up to see if I am on the right track.... and I seem to have a pilgrim hat!

Do you want to put in your two cents?  Is it too tall?  Is the brim too wide?   Will it really look that different when I get the pleated velvet finish fabric on it?    Has anyone ever had these second thoughts when they saw themselves in one of these wierd looking toppers??

Please chime in!  Thank you!

[Pipere]

I think once you get the pleated finish on it it will remove that capotan look. I've worked on a lot of hats that I've worried about looking like that or even cowboy hats!

Besides, the capotan (Pilgrim hat) has a much larger brim, so don't worry.

[gem]

Where's Master James? Have you seen his profile pic?  (He posted in this Tall Hat thread.)  His looks fabulous, and judging from your rough draft, I would say you're on the right track.

[amy]

Thanks for the guidance... I moved ahead and did a draft covering on the mock up to check that I even liked what the result would be when I popped it on my head.   It covered very easily and I learned the value of a curved needle while whipping the pieces together.  But I discovered the following:   Be sure to use a very stiff brim frame.  Don't skip either wiring the outside edge or using a pasted bucram (sp?) frame.   My draft was only poster board and I don't like the soft look on me.  Also some faces are NOT good with this type perky small hat perched atop!  I will go with a smidge larger than head measurement for fitting.  Also going to make the second slightly more cone shaped.  The pattern from Tudor Tailor came out a bit stove pipe for my fancy.  I so love Sir James' hat in his avatar and am looking for more of that slim look.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Lookinhg good, amy!

For other hats you may want to make in the future, the hat patterns by Lynn McMasters are highly recommended. Her instructions are easy to follow and she lists the materials that you would need.

For hats I make, I use a very sturdy Buckram and wire I order from Judith M Millinery. The mnore hats you make, the easier it gets.

[gem]

Love that russet velvet!!

Also some faces are NOT good with this type perky small hat perched atop!  I will go with a smidge larger than head measurement for fitting. 

My experience with the hat I made from Tudor Tailor (the Henrician coif, which is a soft hat) was that the pattern ran a little small--I have a pretty smallish head and not much hair, and find it snug on me.

Once you're finished, be sure to add your review of the pattern to the Tudor Tailor tips thread! http://www.renaissancefestival.com/forums/index.php?topic=9624.0

[amy]

Here is the 2nd draft of the rust velvet tall hat (without the final band, just a pice of scrap ribbon I had).  Came out so much better the second time.  I did wire the edge of the brim as Lady Kathleen suggested so once I have it on I'll be able to shape it just a smidge so as not to have that dunce hat look.  This one is 3/4 inches larger in size, still 6" tall but slightly more cone shaped.  The pleating was pretty easy and accomplished with just 3 rows of stitches.  Thanks for your coaching!  One more to make in silk for my sister.  I think that fabric will be much less forgiving.

[Genievea Brookstone]

Amy that came looks amazing!

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Well done amy!!!



Here is a Arched Tall Hat using a pattern by Lynn McMasters, ultra heavy buckram, millinery wire, underlined in flannel, then covered in Velveteen. I have taken to using the fashion fabric as a bias to finish the Brim edge.


The same when I do Italian Bonnets and Flat Caps.

[amy]

So those lovely brim edges are  bound with matching fabric instead of using a sort of butt joint and a blind whip stitch to finish!  That would work so much better for the next project! Thanks for the tip!  The pictures really help and the hats are gorgeous!

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Glad to be of help, amy!

When using Millinery wire for brim, crown, and crown tops, be sure to cover the wire with single fold wide bias tape. That can be applied by hand or with the sewing machine. That provides a smoother surface then for the bias made of the fashion fabric.

I make 2 1/2" strips. 5/8" seam allowance on the UP side of the brim, then rolled over to measure 5/8"  on the UNDER side, invisible slip stitched with a curved needle. Walla!!!

[gem]

I make 2 1/2" strips. 5/8" seam allowance on the UP side of the brim, then rolled over to measure 5/8"  on the UNDER side, invisible slip stitched with a curved needle. Walla!!!

Voila, indeed! That's a great technique, and it looks fantastic.

[flidais]

Very nice!!!  Hats are so much fun to make.

[Cofeeguru]

Okay, I'm resurrectng this thread, since I've started working on my Elizabethan arched tall hat from Lynn McMasters pattern, and I've got an odd question:  do any of you fine hatmakers have a tip for stabilizing the millinery wire (18 gauge rayon covered) so that it doesn't constantly roll (as I'm currently experiencing on the crown) or slap me in the face?  Or am I doing something very wrong here?

Thanks tons and bunches in advance!!

[Delireus]

This is so exciting, your hat looks great! We've just started cutting out our buckram in my millinery class I'm in in college and while it looks very hard, I'm excited about it. Just reading all of the tips you guys suggested here will be a big help, I'm sure.