corded petticoat?

[peggyelizabeth]

Has anyone made a corded petticoat?
I REALLY want to make one!
I have a couple of options for the cords, either a hemp that is slightly stiff on its own or a cotton cord that I would have to starch to give it more body. Any thoughts on which is better? They are both about 1/4" and I'd like to make it similar to this one: http://www.metmuseum.org/TOAH/images/hb/hb_1992.365_1987.238.jpg
(I know its a different period, but I like the way the channels look better than any other)

When you made yours did you use rectangular panels or gored panels?

I've read a ton of info online that others who have made them posted, but I can't ask articles questions!
Thanks everyone!

[silverstah]

I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE my corded petticoat.  Did I mention that I LOVE it?  LOVE!



This is the best photo of it I have to date - I haven't written up a project diary for it yet. 

I followed these directions:

http://www.elizabethancostume.net/cordpett.html

I didn't iron a crease in the fabric and then stitch the cording in - I just folded it with my fingers as I went.  A zipper foot will REALLY help in keeping the cording tight in the crease of the fabric.  I used linen cloth for the actual petticoat, and 1/4" cotton cording for the cords, since that is what I had on hand.  It washes *beautifully*, and works great.

[silverstah]

Oh - and I just wanted a little fullness to the hem of the skirt, so I corded up to about knee-level, tried it on with my dress, and decided that it was poofy enough for my tastes.   The cording is easy, but time consuming!

[peggyelizabeth]

thanks silverstah!
I've made corded bodies before, so I'm not afraid of the actual cording, that'll be pretty easy.
I'm thinking that each 1/4" cord takes up about 1/2" of fabric to wrap it, so I'll need to multiply the number of cords X 1/2" and add it to the final hem length (plus a little extra for the hem itself) to figure out how long my fabric needs to start out.

Those effigy bodies are BEAUTIFUL! Looks like they are corded too, yes?

[silverstah]

thanks silverstah!
I've made corded bodies before, so I'm not afraid of the actual cording, that'll be pretty easy.
I'm thinking that each 1/4" cord takes up about 1/2" of fabric to wrap it, so I'll need to multiply the number of cords X 1/2" and add it to the final hem length (plus a little extra for the hem itself) to figure out how long my fabric needs to start out.

Those effigy bodies are BEAUTIFUL! Looks like they are corded too, yes?

Yep, your math sounds spot-on.  Honestly, I just guesstimated on how long the panels needed to be - but I do a LOT of my personal costuming by guesstimation, which drives my Laurel CRAZY.

Aw, thank you!  They're actually reed-boned.  It was my first time playing with reed boning, and it works astonishingly well.  Right now they're in the process of being hand-bound with white leather, which is the most time-consuming part of the whole darn process.

[gypsylakat]

won't you need just a smidgen extra for seam allowance? like not much but just a smidgen more? I've never made one but it sounds like you would...

[silverstah]

won't you need just a smidgen extra for seam allowance? like not much but just a smidgen more? I've never made one but it sounds like you would...

Well, the goal is to wrap the fabric as tightly as possible around the cord - which is why a zipper or piping foot REALLY comes in handy.  Most of my cording channels are no larger than the cord encased in them. 

That said - adding in a little extra is never a bad idea on skirts.  It's always easier to make things shorter if you need to. I also did the cording *before* I pleated it to the waistband, so I could adjust the length after I was done cording.

[peggyelizabeth]

Yep, your math sounds spot-on.  Honestly, I just guesstimated on how long the panels needed to be - but I do a LOT of my personal costuming by guesstimation, which drives my Laurel CRAZY.

Aw, thank you!  They're actually reed-boned.  It was my first time playing with reed boning, and it works astonishingly well.  Right now they're in the process of being hand-bound with white leather, which is the most time-consuming part of the whole darn process.

I costume by guesstimate a lot too, but for this I needed a smaller ballpark!

won't you need just a smidgen extra for seam allowance? like not much but just a smidgen more? I've never made one but it sounds like you would...

I'm going to factor in some extra for that as well. I think I see a journal starting...

I have a lot of experience making piping for edges, so I'm pretty familiar with the process, I'll just have a larger piece of fabric that I'm folding over the cord to keep tidy!

[gem]

Well, I took the easy way out and made casings.  I used satin ribbon and a nice stiff nylon cord.

Details are here:  rope petticoat diary.

[FaireMare]

Great help here folks! WOOW!

[peggyelizabeth]

Well, I took the easy way out and made casings.  I used satin ribbon and a nice stiff nylon cord.

Details are here:  rope petticoat diary.

I read your diary. How hard was it to add ribbons to the gored shape? I imagine that trying to do it as tucks in a gored skirt would be a pain.

[gem]

Not.  One.  Bit. 

There's an eensy bit of easing, as you pin the ribbons down, which makes for a small amount of puckering/shimmering to the satin ribbon (which I think you can see in the photos), but that kind of just happens naturally.  I didn't measure anything (um, where have we heard that before?! Ha!!)--I just spooled out the ribbon and pinned it on until I was all the way around.  Since I was working on a flat surface at the time, I didn't notice *any* difficulty.  Really.  Nothing.  Easy-peasy.  This was, in fact, one of the single easiest projects I have *ever* done.

Aren't most period farthingales gored, with casings?  Anyone?  Did I just get stupidly lucky?

[peggyelizabeth]

Aren't most period farthingales gored, with casings?  Anyone?  Did I just get stupidly lucky?

I'd agree than most farthingales I've seen were made in this way. It's the way the pattern in The Tutor Tailor is, but the Alcega one was made using tucks in the fabric of the gored skirt. I can't really imagine that it's very much fun to make, which is why I'm planning at this point to do  rectangular panels and see what happens.

[peggyelizabeth]

I started working on the petticoat, I'll let you know when I have it done and share some pictures...

[peggyelizabeth]

ta-dah!
I finished making the corded petticoat:

I'll get better photos someday, but I wanted to share this right away. It's a gored skirt & I used the Tudor Tailor for the waist band. I ended up w/ 10 rows of hemp cord, it's light to wear and holds out some pretty heavy skirts.

[Lady Amy of York]

I have a question.   The pictures of the corded petticoats look great.  What is  the difference between a corded petticoat  and  a hoop skirt ?    I have  a hoop skirt from sophi stitches that i use, but I just got a new   velvet court gown, and would love to wear something lighter weight under neath the gown, and  easier to go to the um...bathroom  in.
   So i was wondering if a corded petticoat would  do the  trick ? Thanks !

[Marietta Graziella]

Peggy Elizabeth, where's the dress diary?!

I need to make one of these skirts since some of my gowns are becoming a bit more posh.  Right now I totally cheat the whole deal by sliding metal hooping into the extra seam allowance channels on my purchased chemise!  *gasp!*   It's the easy way out, but I get just a bit of fullness at the bottom of my skirts, keep the fabric off my legs and get a little "R.A.C." going. 

[peggyelizabeth]

I have a mini diary going on Live Journal, but I'm planning on going back to create the steps I used and which websites helped the most in the process soon. I just really wanted to get it done. I'll let you know when I post something real.

[silverstah]

I have a question.   The pictures of the corded petticoats look great.  What is  the difference between a corded petticoat  and  a hoop skirt ?    I have  a hoop skirt from sophi stitches that i use, but I just got a new   velvet court gown, and would love to wear something lighter weight under neath the gown, and  easier to go to the um...bathroom  in.
   So i was wondering if a corded petticoat would  do the  trick ? Thanks !

A corded petticoat is going to give you a little bit of "oomph" to your skirts, but it isn't going to give you a specific shape.  It's best for lower/middle class outfits, or later period German and Italian outfits.

English, French and Spanish middle - upper class women consistently show gowns with very definite shapes to their skirts, indicating a boned farthinggale. 

What type of gown is your new one?

[Lady Amy of York]

Velvet bodice with embroidery reversible fore panel , bodice is boned. done in ahunter green velvet on one side, and a green and gold brocade on the other.
also has grommets on it.

Detachable velvet flounce sleeves lined in brocade


Velvet skirt with a brocade fore panel. velvet is a heavy hunter green green color velvet. brocade is in green/gold.

so i was thinking i would probably need to wear my hoop. but here is my promblem.   i  fractued my wrist  and  injured my achilles tendon, so  i am limping around with a cane.  so their goes using a big hoop.

so i was thinking of justwearing a couple of my peasnt skirts unerneath for fullness.  Does anyone think this would give a  heavy velvet gown enough fullness..enough to make it look decent but still allow me to be able to limp around. plus i figured peasant skirts would make it easier for me to go to the bathroom. then having to deal with a hoop. bad enough when you have 2 hands let alone only use of one, plus the privies at Sterling ren faire are so small.
excuse my typing..trying to learn to type left handed !!

[peggyelizabeth]

most importantly, take care of yourself! My mom sprained her Achilles a number of years ago & she still has times when it lets her know that she's over-done things. Please make sure that the group you're going with knows that when you say that it's time to sit or to go home, you mean it.

as for the costume question, you could wear many skirts under your gown, BUT it may end up weighing more that your hoop & could wear you out faster. I find that skirts without something to hold out the weight get wrapped up around my legs and the chances of misstepping or falling are greater.

Are the bones in your hoop removable? You might ask a friend or family member to help you replace them temporarily with something softer, like stiff cord to be able to use them. You'd likely have a better chance at maneuvering through the faire.

[Lady Amy of York]

i already told everyone i plan on sittiing at faire and not walking. i justwant  to go and see friends.

yes, i was thinking  too the extra skirts could be too much weight.   

worse case scenario i wear  my wench wear , or one of my lighter weight gowns  and save  debute of the new gown until  i can  function  better !

believe me i plan on taking easy with the foot and wrist ! i don't need any more surgeries this  year !    sigh... what  a year...is it 2009   yet ?

[gem]

My biggest concern would be not whether the peasant skirts will give enough fullness under the velvet, but whether they will lift the hem enough.  Without a farthingale, the skirt gets dramatically longer... and you will run a bigger risk of tripping.

Wear something easy.

[Merry]

corded petticoat instead of a farthingale!  That sounds ideal for my new middles.  I really want something to add umph to the skirt and keep it from getting tangled up in my legs.  A farthingale is too much for middles and besides, it will shorten the skirt.  A corded petticoat sounds perfect...

Thanks for the idea!