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corded petticoat?

Started by peggyelizabeth, May 29, 2008, 10:51:17 AM

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peggyelizabeth

Has anyone made a corded petticoat?
I REALLY want to make one!
I have a couple of options for the cords, either a hemp that is slightly stiff on its own or a cotton cord that I would have to starch to give it more body. Any thoughts on which is better? They are both about 1/4" and I'd like to make it similar to this one: http://www.metmuseum.org/TOAH/images/hb/hb_1992.365_1987.238.jpg
(I know its a different period, but I like the way the channels look better than any other)

When you made yours did you use rectangular panels or gored panels?

I've read a ton of info online that others who have made them posted, but I can't ask articles questions!
Thanks everyone!

silverstah

I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE my corded petticoat.  Did I mention that I LOVE it?  LOVE! :)



This is the best photo of it I have to date - I haven't written up a project diary for it yet. 

I followed these directions:

http://www.elizabethancostume.net/cordpett.html

I didn't iron a crease in the fabric and then stitch the cording in - I just folded it with my fingers as I went.  A zipper foot will REALLY help in keeping the cording tight in the crease of the fabric.  I used linen cloth for the actual petticoat, and 1/4" cotton cording for the cords, since that is what I had on hand.  It washes *beautifully*, and works great. :)
Catarina Caravello - Mistress of the Bobbins
\"Arrrgh.  Feed Dogs.  Arrrgh.\"  -The Pirate, sewing

silverstah

Oh - and I just wanted a little fullness to the hem of the skirt, so I corded up to about knee-level, tried it on with my dress, and decided that it was poofy enough for my tastes. ;)  The cording is easy, but time consuming! :)
Catarina Caravello - Mistress of the Bobbins
\"Arrrgh.  Feed Dogs.  Arrrgh.\"  -The Pirate, sewing

peggyelizabeth

thanks silverstah!
I've made corded bodies before, so I'm not afraid of the actual cording, that'll be pretty easy.
I'm thinking that each 1/4" cord takes up about 1/2" of fabric to wrap it, so I'll need to multiply the number of cords X 1/2" and add it to the final hem length (plus a little extra for the hem itself) to figure out how long my fabric needs to start out.

Those effigy bodies are BEAUTIFUL! Looks like they are corded too, yes?

silverstah

Quote from: peggyelizabeth on May 29, 2008, 11:42:55 AM
thanks silverstah!
I've made corded bodies before, so I'm not afraid of the actual cording, that'll be pretty easy.
I'm thinking that each 1/4" cord takes up about 1/2" of fabric to wrap it, so I'll need to multiply the number of cords X 1/2" and add it to the final hem length (plus a little extra for the hem itself) to figure out how long my fabric needs to start out.

Those effigy bodies are BEAUTIFUL! Looks like they are corded too, yes?

Yep, your math sounds spot-on.  Honestly, I just guesstimated on how long the panels needed to be - but I do a LOT of my personal costuming by guesstimation, which drives my Laurel CRAZY. ;)

Aw, thank you!  They're actually reed-boned.  It was my first time playing with reed boning, and it works astonishingly well.  Right now they're in the process of being hand-bound with white leather, which is the most time-consuming part of the whole darn process. :)
Catarina Caravello - Mistress of the Bobbins
\"Arrrgh.  Feed Dogs.  Arrrgh.\"  -The Pirate, sewing

gypsylakat

won't you need just a smidgen extra for seam allowance? like not much but just a smidgen more? I've never made one but it sounds like you would...
"A kiss can be a comma, a question mark or an exclamation point.
That's basic spelling that every woman ought to know."

silverstah

Quote from: gypsylakat on May 29, 2008, 12:21:04 PM
won't you need just a smidgen extra for seam allowance? like not much but just a smidgen more? I've never made one but it sounds like you would...

Well, the goal is to wrap the fabric as tightly as possible around the cord - which is why a zipper or piping foot REALLY comes in handy.  Most of my cording channels are no larger than the cord encased in them. 

That said - adding in a little extra is never a bad idea on skirts.  It's always easier to make things shorter if you need to. ;) I also did the cording *before* I pleated it to the waistband, so I could adjust the length after I was done cording. :)
Catarina Caravello - Mistress of the Bobbins
\"Arrrgh.  Feed Dogs.  Arrrgh.\"  -The Pirate, sewing

peggyelizabeth

Quote from: silverstah on May 29, 2008, 11:51:44 AM
Yep, your math sounds spot-on.  Honestly, I just guesstimated on how long the panels needed to be - but I do a LOT of my personal costuming by guesstimation, which drives my Laurel CRAZY. ;)

Aw, thank you!  They're actually reed-boned.  It was my first time playing with reed boning, and it works astonishingly well.  Right now they're in the process of being hand-bound with white leather, which is the most time-consuming part of the whole darn process. :)

I costume by guesstimate a lot too, but for this I needed a smaller ballpark!

Quote from: gypsylakat on May 29, 2008, 12:21:04 PM
won't you need just a smidgen extra for seam allowance? like not much but just a smidgen more? I've never made one but it sounds like you would...

I'm going to factor in some extra for that as well. I think I see a journal starting...

I have a lot of experience making piping for edges, so I'm pretty familiar with the process, I'll just have a larger piece of fabric that I'm folding over the cord to keep tidy!

gem

Well, I took the easy way out and made casings.  I used satin ribbon and a nice stiff nylon cord.

Details are here:  rope petticoat diary.

FaireMare

Great help here folks! WOOW!

peggyelizabeth

Quote from: gem on May 29, 2008, 04:07:46 PM
Well, I took the easy way out and made casings.  I used satin ribbon and a nice stiff nylon cord.

Details are here:  rope petticoat diary.

I read your diary. How hard was it to add ribbons to the gored shape? I imagine that trying to do it as tucks in a gored skirt would be a pain.

gem

Not.  One.  Bit. 

There's an eensy bit of easing, as you pin the ribbons down, which makes for a small amount of puckering/shimmering to the satin ribbon (which I think you can see in the photos), but that kind of just happens naturally.  I didn't measure anything (um, where have we heard that before?! Ha!!)--I just spooled out the ribbon and pinned it on until I was all the way around.  Since I was working on a flat surface at the time, I didn't notice *any* difficulty.  Really.  Nothing.  Easy-peasy.  This was, in fact, one of the single easiest projects I have *ever* done.

Aren't most period farthingales gored, with casings?  Anyone?  Did I just get stupidly lucky?

peggyelizabeth

Quote from: gem on May 30, 2008, 01:29:30 PM
Aren't most period farthingales gored, with casings?  Anyone?  Did I just get stupidly lucky?

I'd agree than most farthingales I've seen were made in this way. It's the way the pattern in The Tutor Tailor is, but the Alcega one was made using tucks in the fabric of the gored skirt. I can't really imagine that it's very much fun to make, which is why I'm planning at this point to do  rectangular panels and see what happens.

peggyelizabeth

I started working on the petticoat, I'll let you know when I have it done and share some pictures...

peggyelizabeth

ta-dah!
I finished making the corded petticoat:

I'll get better photos someday, but I wanted to share this right away. It's a gored skirt & I used the Tudor Tailor for the waist band. I ended up w/ 10 rows of hemp cord, it's light to wear and holds out some pretty heavy skirts.