Brand New Seamstress-In-Training

[Kate XXXXXX]

Yup.  And the sign says Go For It!   

[Brenna]

Do seamstresses prefer this rotary wheel/cutting board for fabrics and patterns?  Or do they still use old fashioned scissors to get the job done?  I was watching some videos earlier that made cutting look like a breeze with this wheel and ruler method?  Just wow.  Sewing has advanced!

[Lady Isabella]

I know its old school but I use scissors. I have a rotary wheel but.......

[Kate XXXXXX]

I use both.  It depends what I'm cutting, in both pattern and fabric...  I use whichever gets the better job done on the day, and sometimes one garment will be cut out with a combination.  Sometimes heavely embroidered fabrics don't cut well with the rotary cutter, but it's wonderful for slinky knits, silk chiffon, and basic shirt weight linen and cotton.

[gem]

There is a learning curve with rotary cutters; I have never gotten the hang of mine, and I know many quilt shops actually offer rotary cutting classes. So, um, still scissors here for me, too.

[isabelladangelo]

Scissors and the "rip" method.  :-)  You need to be careful if you use the rip method though since it only works with cotton fabrics like muslin or quilter's cotton.   However, if all you need is a straight rectangle of fabric (like you often need to make a chemise or to start on a surcote..) I snip the fabric where I want the cut to start and rip it the rest of the way.   It's worked with some silks too but TEST the fabric to make sure it will go in a straight line across the grain and not go sideways.   The rip method saves a lot of time and you know you have a perfectly straight line.   

My suggestion would be to start the new seamstress out on very simple but wearable patterns such as a basic chemise, a sideless surcote, or a smock/t-tunic.   That way, she'll learn about measuring, cutting simple straight lines, piecing together the pattern, sewing straight seams, and still be able to wear her creation to faire for many years. 

[Brenna]

I went with mom to the Joann Fabric store this evening. Ohhhh my. I was like a kid in a candy store!  All the pretty colors and textures!  I found two patterns (VERY mundane) in the 99 cent zone that had pants, skirts, tops, and shorts all in one. Will help me begin sewing basic clothing that I can actually WEAR and yet learn on, too.

I know a chemise is supposed to be a very easy piece to sew.  I did get to see the muslins.  The bleached white was practically see-thru!  Is this normal, girls???  My irish dress will open in the front and show the chemise that's underneath! What of that??? 

I didn't find a commercial chemise pattern unfortunately (well, not one in the sales items).  I know there are some online but I'm scared to death to "create" my pattern to my measurements when I've never even followed a pre-made pattern before.  Do you think that's jumping a bit too far into the fire?  I haven't a clue about how much material, etc.  I'll check those online links that someone so sweetly put up earlier in this thread again.  I'm just a bit timid and anxious.  Don't want to buy and mutilate the material.

But, all this to say it was FUN!!  And I'm so happy and ready to just jump right in and get started on the simple stuff I got a pattern for!

[Lady Rebecca]

Hennahair, if you go back to Joanns by this weekend, look at the Butterick patterns - they are currently 99cents. The chemise pattern I love is 6196, which (when you are able) also has a bodice pattern (albeit with princess seams) and a skirt.

Also, I have personally never used muslin for a chemise simply because, like you found, it is so thin. What I like to do is use the quilter's cotton in white or ivory, with tiny same color floral prints on it. I use the backside of the fabric facing out, so it just is visible up close. I have also used symphony broadcloth, which is still thin, but comes in a variety of colors, and is thicker than muslin.

Have fun!

[Brenna]

Lady Rebecca, did you see that broadcloth is only $1.79 a yard??  I want the forest green color desperately, but I have to find my pattern for my dress first! I'll check on that pattern, but I'm a pretty large girl (unfortunately) and most patterns won't cover me. /sigh  I'm too new to alter any sewing patterns.  Hopefully I can find something before too long and get started! I don't have much time!

[Brenna]

I wear a size 20-22 in commercial clothing (such as Lane Bryant or Cato) but the measurements on the backs of these patterns don't even come CLOSE to adding up to my measuring myself with the tape.  My size 20-22 body that goes in that size of commercial store clothing seems to be more in line with a size 30W!!??  Please tell me I'm reading the measurements wrong? *cry

[Lady Rebecca]

30 might be a bit overestimating. I know I'm usually around an 18 (from Lane Bryant), but I tend to be around 24 for patterns.

It's super easy to increase the size of something, though (assuming you're not too terrible at math). Since patterns show multiple sizes, I just measure the distance between the lines of the two largest sizes on the pattern (say 20 to 22), and multiply that amount by however many sizes over the pattern you are. For example, if you would be a size 28, and the pattern goes up to 22 --> say there is 1/2" between the lines of the 20 vs 22. Multiply that .5 by 3, which is how much bigger of a size you need, and you get 1.5". So when you are laying out your pattern on the fabric, you need to cut 1.5" from the edge of the pattern.

Also, don't fret too much if your chemise comes out a little too big. No one will notice.

[Kate XXXXXX]

ONLY use the size on a pattern to identify the lines to trace!  Pattern sizes are very different from RTW sizes.  I take a UK 12-14 in marks and Spencers sizes, with a 32DD bra.  I'm lucky to get away with a 16 in some patterns!  And patterns for historical stuff can be even more erratic as every pattern company uses their own measurement and size chart...

[Brenna]

If the sizing is so terrible, I'm just happy there are no tags on homemade clothing!   I'm NOT walking around in anything that says "size 30" on it!  LOL  I was also told if I made a real cheapy cloth (like the $1.99 muslins) version of it, I could try it on and see if it was a true fit or not without wasting too much money.  Anyone else do that?  Make a mock version first?  Or is that just over-kill and I should stick with measuring myself and doing some simple math.  I can't wait to meet you all and give you huge hugs for all this help!

[LadyShadow]

I dont pay too much attention to the measurements on the backs of commercial patterns anymore.  I just follow around my dress size.  I tried doing by the measurement thing and in doing so the pattern tried to tell me I needed a bigger pattern.  But in the end it all came out just right to use my current size.

For bodices and waste bands I do a mock-up/ test fit.  But for the most part I just measure, cut and sew.  *knock on wood*  I have been pretty lucky with being spot on with this method.

[Marietta Graziella]

If you are unfamiliar with using patterns (wording, pictures, etc), try buying a totally simple pattern (on sale, of course!) that you know how it will come out, just so you can familiarize yourself with using them.  Example:  My first project using a pattern was placemats.  Yup.  I actually paid money for rectangles.  The point was to learn to read the pattern, understand the pictures and symbols, using them (that damn tissue is so annoying!), following the steps, etc. 

This board has amazing seamstresses at every level of learning and people are always glad to offer assistance.  Read thru the dress diaries thread stickied at the top of the list.  There is a wealth of information there!