Brand New Seamstress-In-Training

[Dinobabe]

I really wouldn't fret about the pattern sizing.  I am a size 6-8 commercial, size 6-12 in patterns (depending on what company, cut, style, year produced, etc.), and my wedding dress was a size 16!  So you can see that the number doesn't really mean anything!!!

[Brenna]

Read thru the dress diaries thread stickied at the top of the list.  There is a wealth of information there!

I went this morning and clicked on a couple diaries. Oh, they are fun.  The one that has the duct tape dress form was really cute.  Further down it talks about not using distilled water in a steam iron or it will "spit at you worse than an angry llama". LOL  Priceless.

Neat suggestions and fun stories!  Thanks for pointing that thread out!

[Brenna]

So you can see that the number doesn't really mean anything!!!

Well, it doesn't mean anything to you! You're so cute and ya got TWO men on your arms in the photo.   I'd rather be a size 16 than 30 for sure.  I think this is the time when I have finally found the motivation I need to truly lose some weight!  Men didn't do it.  My own health didn't get me there.  But, the expense of more fabric to cover me, and the thought of buying a pattern with that high of a size number on it?  Yeah, that's the way to motivate this lazy girl!   (Thanks for the encouragement, Dino.   You know I'm just teasing. NOT about you being cute, though! That was real!)

[Kate XXXXXX]

If the sizing is so terrible, I'm just happy there are no tags on homemade clothing!   I'm NOT walking around in anything that says "size 30" on it!  LOL  I was also told if I made a real cheapy cloth (like the $1.99 muslins) version of it, I could try it on and see if it was a true fit or not without wasting too much money.  Anyone else do that?  Make a mock version first?  Or is that just over-kill and I should stick with measuring myself and doing some simple math.  I can't wait to meet you all and give you huge hugs for all this help!

Mock-ups or toiles are done all the time, especially by the professionals.  They are the way to test whether the fit is correct and the style suits you.  Here are some of mine:

Corset toiles:

 

Caraco toile:



I do a toile for almost everything I make.  Even hats!

[Brenna]

Oh Kate! Look at you! Thanks for posting some of the photos. It's so interesting sometimes to see the true form before all the pretty colors and stitching cover up the "base" of it all.  I think I'm going to go that route.  Oh, and I think I've decided I'll simplify things just for this  year while I'm learning and do a simple vest, peasant blouse, and elastic waisted skirt to start.  Peasant's look I suppose that is?  This way I can do pieces instead of trying to stitch the vest to the skirt and sew a full-length chemise.  Tho, I did threaten my children with my wearing a chemise at all times when I was in the house and not expecting company. The fabric felt so light and comfy! Free-flowing.

[Kate XXXXXX]

The toile stays now shape the dress dummies, and my final ones are green silk.   

My shifts are made from white linen, white cotton, and a cream brushed cotton.  All light and airy...  Shifts or chemises are an excellent way to practice straight seams and machine control.  I did finish the hems of the linen one by hand, just because!  And no, it isn't difficult, it just takes time and practice!  I use my own kit to perfect the skills needed for making perfect customer garments.

 

Remember that anything you don't understand or need more explanation for, you can just ask.

[Brenna]

*gulp   Sewing.. by HAND?  /faints   

[Dinobabe]

So you can see that the number doesn't really mean anything!!!

Well, it doesn't mean anything to you! You're so cute and ya got TWO men on your arms in the photo.   I'd rather be a size 16 than 30 for sure.  I think this is the time when I have finally found the motivation I need to truly lose some weight!  Men didn't do it.  My own health didn't get me there.  But, the expense of more fabric to cover me, and the thought of buying a pattern with that high of a size number on it?  Yeah, that's the way to motivate this lazy girl!   (Thanks for the encouragement, Dino.   You know I'm just teasing. NOT about you being cute, though! That was real!)

You are so sweet!  I know you are teasing!
But really remember it is about making a garment that makes you feel good AND that you made yourself so you feel even better!  Only size of heart matters not size of body!
And alas the two men aren't mine!

Good luck and have FUN!!!  (shakes finger dramatically)

[Kate XXXXXX]

   I often finish things by hand.  Quite often it's quicker than by machine!

[Brenna]

Pattern Sizing Question 

The body measurements state particular sizes. Like I said in a previous post, it was as if I were a size 30W. BUT, When looking at the bottom of those charts they have a section called "garment measurements".  It's different from "body measurements".  The "garment" measurements have me in a MUCH smaller size.

Which measurements should I be paying the most attention to?  For example:

Bust of 51 inches.
Body measurements say for 50 bust, use size 28W or for 52 bust, use size 30W. 
Garment measurements say that 28W's bust is 55 1/2!?  And the 30W garment is 57 1/2.  That would dwarf me!

So, I'm kinda confused on the measuring.  Do I measure tightly, close to my skin for body measurements and even squeeze a little?  Or do I trust the garment measurement is going to give me that much room and go with that number?

[Kate XXXXXX]

Measure in the garments you will wear under it, corset or bra...

Remember that all garments have WEARING EASE added to them.  This is extra added to the pattern so that it isn't skin tight and unwearable.  At your size, 5" wearing ease on a fitted garment is normal.  You need that much to move in the garment.  If you don't have wearing ease, the garment will fit like a sausage skin and you won't be able to move in it.  If you find that it is too much ease for comfort, take it out at the toile fitting stage.  Remember to do ALL fittings wearing the corset or bra you will wear under the dress.

Some patterns are better sized than others.  Trace off the size you need.  Make any adjustments to make it YOUR size.  Draw in the seam allowances.  Now measure the pattern pieces and compare those measurements with the stated finished garment size on the pattern.  If your bits are larger, fold out the excess.  Make up a toile, including sleeves.  Try it on.  Get someone to pin out any excess fabric.  Show us pix at this fitting stage and we'll see what we can do to help improve things.

This chart shows the body measurements and ease allowances for modern garment patterns.  Commercial patterns like Simplicity and McCalls tend to follow these guidelines.  Some of the more accurate historically based patterns have fitting advice included so that you get a more period fit.

[Brenna]

I do NOT think walking around renfaires stuffed like a sausage would be advisable for comfort or for poor ren-goers who have eyes to witness such a thing! LOL  Thanks for the help, Kate! I'll post some pics when I dive in.  I'm going to get the fabric this afternoon and was doing just one more check on measurements.  If "garment measurements" were more accurate, I could actually fit in the size 20 blouse, but not even close in "body measurements".  So, I'll have to stick with my plus-size patterns for now.  I haven't found a chemise pattern for my "body measurement" size yet. 

[isabelladangelo]

I know a chemise is supposed to be a very easy piece to sew.  I did get to see the muslins.  The bleached white was practically see-thru!  Is this normal, girls???  My irish dress will open in the front and show the chemise that's underneath! What of that??? 

Yeap!   Although the Irish Dress is not period per se (there are several Italian portraits that show front lacing with a split skirt but the shape is different), this is why you will see many split open skirts with underskirts showing through in most period paintings.   Also, there is always bloomers for faire to wear beneath it.   

I've always used either muslin, crinkle cotton gauze, or hanky weight linen for my chemises.  The reasons are that they are supposed to be very light and airy.   It's the thread bare favorite white t-shirt of yesteryear.  Too heavy a weight will make you hot and you want something that will breathe easily on those hot faire days!

So, basically, just make a skirt to go on underneath your dress.  Skirts are ridiculously easy without a pattern.   All you need to do is get 4 to 5 yards of material.   Cut a waist band from the end (45" or 54" long, so the width of the fabric, not the length).  It should only be about 3" wide so you are just cutting a 3 inch strip.   Pleat or gather the remaining length of the fabric to your waist measurement.  Sew the plated fabric to the waistband strip.  Fold the strip over and sew it down to hide the "tops" of the pleats, gathers.  (You are just encasing the top).  Cut off the excess waistband so that you have about 2" left over (so you can button it or add a hook and eye).  Sew up the two ends for the skirt seam.  Hem the skirt.   That's it.   It sounds more complicated than it really is and you don't need to cut more than the waistband making it a very excellent beginners project. 

[gem]

My hanky-weight shift (18th C. term for chemise) IS pretty-much see-through, and there are a lot of period portraits (especially Italian ones, like this Titian) that show how very fine some of those linen chemises really got!  I just don't wear that one with my open-front Irish gowns.  My favorite chemise is made from really nice bright white cotton broadcloth. It's not as cool and breezy as my linen ones, but it's less transparent, too!

On the sizing issue:

Pattern companies never subscribed to the fad for "vanity sizing," by which a 1960s 14 became today's size 8, and so your PATTERN SIZE is not your READY-TO-WEAR size. It's also very important that you learn about ease, which Kate explained to you: it's the amount of fabric in the garment beyond your body measurements. The more loosely-fitting a garment, the more ease it will have. Some garments--like swimsuits--actually have *negative* ease, meaning they are smaller than your body and will stretch when you put them on. If an ordinary garment like a shirt were made to your body measurements, you wouldn't be able to put it on or move in it at all.

You want lots of ease in a chemise, and practically none at all in a bodice (Ren-fair style standalone bodice, not the bodice portion of a dress). A too-large Ren bodice won't do you any favors, and it will be uncomfortable to wear.

The mockup stage is important for things like bodices, because sometimes the pattern companies add ease where we costumers don't really want it (like bodices). I made a bodice once from a McCall's pattern, and I had to go down three full sizes from what the pattern said I needed! And I'm making a little jacket now that doesn't have *enough* ease at my size. If I hadn't done the mockup first, it would have been unwearable. Now I just know I have to make the seam allowances a smidge larger.

[Brenna]

Wonderful advice from you all!  I feel much more confident after reading here.  I should've bought that broadcloth I thought about earlier! I didn't because I didn't have a skirt pattern, but I see now I could've managed one (or two).

So far I've purchased about 5.5 yards of bleached muslin (100% cotton) and some cording (for gathering the sleeves and neckline).  I haven't spent any huge amounts of money yet.  Tomorrow is when I'm going to actually lay it all out and attempt to cut my first piece.  *shivers   

I'll take pics and report back if/when I can!