Getting started...

[Stuben]

Well I decided if I'm going do this I'm jumping in with both feet. I have the Margo Anderson Elizabethan Gentleman pattern already and the Elizabethan Working Woman pattern on the way. I got carried away and bought the last 3 yards of some beautiful silk brocade off Ebay and it's on the way. I think I'm going to order some 3oz bleached linen for our shirts and some heavy canvas linen for the flat lining of the doublet and bodice.

What fabric for the skirt do you think would look good with the silk brocade?

[isabelladangelo]

I'd start a bit simpler.  The English court mainly used brocades for the foreparts and sleeves.   There were a couple of reasons for this - silk had to travel from either China or Italy which meant, either way, it was $$$ or £££.  You bought as little as possible and yet still showed off your wealth.  Plus, it was cold most of year before central heating, velvet was a necessity.  ;-)   

Start with the under garments - brais, shirt, shift, ect and then see if you want to cut into your silk brocade still. 

[mollymishap]

Greetings, Stuben, and welcome!

Since we're just getting to know you it would be helpful if you could tell us a little about your sewing experience so that we can give you feedback/suggestions, etc. based on where you're at.  You picked a tricky time period tailoring-wise, and it's easy to get frustrated if you're in over your head. 

That being said, if you were born with a needle & thread in your hands, then have-at!

Again, welcome!!!

[gem]

I think it would also help if you let us know what sort of garb you're making, or the kind of "character" you're intending to portray. You have the Margo Working Woman, but have bought brocade for the skirt. Were you thinking of going a little more upscale? Any chance you can post a photo of your gorgeous silk brocade (we love fabric here!!)?

[Stuben]

Greetings, Stuben, and welcome!

Since we're just getting to know you it would be helpful if you could tell us a little about your sewing experience so that we can give you feedback/suggestions, etc. based on where you're at.  You picked a tricky time period tailoring-wise, and it's easy to get frustrated if you're in over your head. 

That being said, if you were born with a needle & thread in your hands, then have-at!

Again, welcome!!!

Well the GF has done some hand and machine sewing but never read a pattern. I made a doublet last fall using Simplicity 4039 (I think that was the #) but didn't like that it didn't have a collar and the trim I used was pretty cheesy. I gave it away and decided I would try again. I did attempt some paned slopps but I used all weather upholstery  fabric and with 7 layers it was about 1/2 inch thick and the machine couldn't sew it. I put any new attempts on hold until I did some fabric and sewing research. So I feel I can now read a pattern and identify some of the fabrics that use natural fibers. So It's time to give it another go.

Stuben

[Stuben]

I think it would also help if you let us know what sort of garb you're making, or the kind of "character" you're intending to portray. You have the Margo Working Woman, but have bought brocade for the skirt. Were you thinking of going a little more upscale? Any chance you can post a photo of your gorgeous silk brocade (we love fabric here!!)?

Well, my friend didn't want to start with all the layers of a Noble so I thought the Working/middle class would be better to start with. We were torn between making it HA for middle class or just blinging it up for Faire. The seller made our decision for us. He tried a bait-and-switch so I asked for a refund. Surprisingly he already gave me one. So I think making each of us a middle class HA ensemble is the plan.

Stuben

[Stuben]

Here's a pic of the silk brocade that's not to be.

[DonaCatalina]

Once you've worn your garb to fair a few times, you will discover your preference goes in one of two directions. Either you want to stay with the simpler peasant garb and not worry about your clothes, or you want to look really fancy and go for full on court garb. That is why I encourage people to go as simple as possible in their first set of garb until they actually spend a whole day in it.
Many 'silk' brocades commercially available in the US are only 18% silk. If the balance of the fabric is polyester, you will feel like shake and bake very quickly.
That is why I search for cotton brocades, brocatelles and cotton velvet. It is a lot more predictable and usually machine washable. I use silks for shirts, chemises and some underskirts, where I can use Dupioni and not spend an arm and a leg.

[Stuben]

I ordered 7 yds of the white linen from Fabrics store. I'm going to heed the suggestions to start simpler. It should be enough to make our shirts. I think for now we are going to make middle class outfits of linen and wool and try to keep them HA.

What type and weight of wool would I use? It supposed to be a hotter than normal summer this year so I was thinking linen shirt and pants, and a doublet with a fashion fabric layer of wool.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions

Stuben

[Kate XXXXXX]

A linen doublet would be perfectly acceptable, as would a linen gown.  Use 'suit weight' linen for those.  If you want wool, choose a light weight 'tropical' wool in a plain colour: no stripes or checks.

[Stuben]

What would be "suit weight"? 6-7 oz?

[gem]

6-7 oz would be like canvas--good for corsetry or for the inner workings of a bodice or doublet. From Fabrics-store.com, the 5.3 oz IL019 is a great weight for dresses and would be good for a lighter weight doublet, but you'd want to have it pretty sturdily underlined. Milord likes that weight for shirts. He also likes their linen/cotton blend, which actually weighs less, but feels a bit beefier.

ETA: They will send you free swatches, which is a great way to get a feel (no pun intended!) for the different weights/hands.

[Stuben]

Thanks for the great info. We still haven't decided which direction we are going to go. I like the idea of HA outfits but she has her mind set on keeping it simple and using one of the commercial costume patterns. So more than likely I will give in 

Stuben

[isabelladangelo]

There is a compromise!   

There are actually a couple of very awesome Big 3 patterns for ladies historical wear.   For men, it's pretty easy to draft out what is wrong with it and make it a lot closer to H/A.  Simplicity 2589 (the Tudor style dress one) is an excellent pattern and 2621 is perfect for making all the underthings needed for most of the 16th C styles.  Both are h/a.  McCalls 4659 is a great doublet pattern - I have yet to see any of the big three get the pants correct but I typically don't do men's clothing so it might be out there.   The McCalls pattern is out of print but it's pretty easy for find on ebay or etsy.   

[Aderin]

Once you've worn your garb to fair a few times, you will discover your preference goes in one of two directions. Either you want to stay with the simpler peasant garb and not worry about your clothes, or you want to look really fancy and go for full on court garb. That is why I encourage people to go as simple as possible in their first set of garb until they actually spend a whole day in it.
Many 'silk' brocades commercially available in the US are only 18% silk. If the balance of the fabric is polyester, you will feel like shake and bake very quickly.
That is why I search for cotton brocades, brocatelles and cotton velvet. It is a lot more predictable and usually machine washable. I use silks for shirts, chemises and some underskirts, where I can use Dupioni and not spend an arm and a leg.

Thanks for this great advice! I will heed thy words and my pockets thank thee!

[Stuben]

Thanks Isabella. Those are great choices but she doesn't want to wear the layers and has made up her mind on the pattern we are going to make for her (McCalls 2806 A). I'm sure she will come around eventually since she has a love for crafting/sewing/crocheting but it will take a bit until she has confidence in turning patterns into clothing. Me, I have no problem, I just jump in and go for it 

I plan to use the Simplicity pattern for my doublet and plan to put a collar on it since it doesn't have one. I will use the Margo pattern for my shirt and venetian pants. I really want to take another go at making paned slopps but I don't want us to look too mismatched. Here's a pic of the patterns.



Here's my fabric find today. I bought a yard of it for the main body of my doublet. I'm pretty sure its some sort of cotton/poly blend brocade.

[gem]

Before diving in to the Simplicity doublet, have a look at this thread, which has great photos of board members' versions. One forum member has made it NINE times, and they're all fabulous. It's a great pattern, goes together easily, fits nicely, and is very adaptable.

http://www.renaissancefestival.com/forums/index.php/topic,17550.0.html

Good luck!

[Stuben]

Thanks Gem! It looks like it is a decent choice. I'm so ready to make something.  I have the 7 yds of linen starting its second run thru the washer and dryer.

[isabelladangelo]

The Italian style pattern by McCalls isn't all that bad.  The big thing that needs to be done to make it H/A (and fit!) is to draft out the darts in the bodice.   I cut out my jeans size (never what they say you should cut out!) and cut the bodice out.   I ignore the skirt pattern for the most part because all you need to do is pleat your yardage to the bottom of the bodice.   It will give you a nice full skirt and you don't have to cut anything else out!

With the bodice pattern, I fold the dart on the pattern itself and trace around it on to a piece of muslin.  The muslin becomes your new pattern and you can use it again and again. 

Ignore the directions on the pattern.  If she has a chemise, she won't need the sleeves.  Rather, cut out two back pieces and one front piece on the fold of each layer.  The dress should have a "fashion" layer, a duck cloth or canvas layer (something heavy), and the lining fabric.  Sew the shoulders of each layer and then line them up with the fashion layer and the lining layer facing each other.   The canvas layer can be on either side as long as it's not inbetween the fashion and lining layers.

Sew the back seam, the neckline, and the armholes but not the sides.  Pull the back pieces through the now created straps via at the front of the bodice.  Once you have it turned, sew up the sides.  Attach the rest of the yardage for the skirt, and sew up the insides so there isn't a raw seam showing.  Put sewn eyelets in the back or lacing rings and the dress is ready to wear!

[Stuben]

Thanks Isabella, I understand how your describing making the bodice. That's the same as the directions in making the doublet except you pull thru the front halves. Unfortunately my GF is doing her best to be a pain. She showed up with Simplicity 3809 and informed me I WILL make costume A just like the pattern shows except with red fabrics. Since it was Fathers Day I just dropped the subject for now.

On a good note the linen for my shirt is absolutely soft and beautiful after several washings. I'm looking forward to getting started on the shirt just so I can wear it. I see lots of linen in my future.

Stuben

[gem]

On a good note the linen for my shirt is absolutely soft and beautiful after several washings. I'm looking forward to getting started on the shirt just so I can wear it. I see lots of linen in my future.

Mwa-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha! Lured you in, haven't we?    I was... admiring one of my first big shipments of linen when Milord chanced upon me and said, "Are you cuddling that fabric?"

[Stuben]

LOL, when she was helping me fold it up she kept saying how it would be really nice to sleep in, and how it would make a great sleeping gown. We had it stretched across the bed and I was pulling to me folding it up and she kept lying on it and hugging it.