Getting started...

[Stuben]

Well I decided if I'm going do this I'm jumping in with both feet. I have the Margo Anderson Elizabethan Gentleman pattern already and the Elizabethan Working Woman pattern on the way. I got carried away and bought the last 3 yards of some beautiful silk brocade off Ebay and it's on the way. I think I'm going to order some 3oz bleached linen for our shirts and some heavy canvas linen for the flat lining of the doublet and bodice.

What fabric for the skirt do you think would look good with the silk brocade?

[isabelladangelo]

I'd start a bit simpler.  The English court mainly used brocades for the foreparts and sleeves.   There were a couple of reasons for this - silk had to travel from either China or Italy which meant, either way, it was $$$ or £££.  You bought as little as possible and yet still showed off your wealth.  Plus, it was cold most of year before central heating, velvet was a necessity.  ;-)   

Start with the under garments - brais, shirt, shift, ect and then see if you want to cut into your silk brocade still. 

[mollymishap]

Greetings, Stuben, and welcome!

Since we're just getting to know you it would be helpful if you could tell us a little about your sewing experience so that we can give you feedback/suggestions, etc. based on where you're at.  You picked a tricky time period tailoring-wise, and it's easy to get frustrated if you're in over your head. 

That being said, if you were born with a needle & thread in your hands, then have-at!

Again, welcome!!!

[gem]

I think it would also help if you let us know what sort of garb you're making, or the kind of "character" you're intending to portray. You have the Margo Working Woman, but have bought brocade for the skirt. Were you thinking of going a little more upscale? Any chance you can post a photo of your gorgeous silk brocade (we love fabric here!!)?

[Stuben]

Greetings, Stuben, and welcome!

Since we're just getting to know you it would be helpful if you could tell us a little about your sewing experience so that we can give you feedback/suggestions, etc. based on where you're at.  You picked a tricky time period tailoring-wise, and it's easy to get frustrated if you're in over your head. 

That being said, if you were born with a needle & thread in your hands, then have-at!

Again, welcome!!!

Well the GF has done some hand and machine sewing but never read a pattern. I made a doublet last fall using Simplicity 4039 (I think that was the #) but didn't like that it didn't have a collar and the trim I used was pretty cheesy. I gave it away and decided I would try again. I did attempt some paned slopps but I used all weather upholstery  fabric and with 7 layers it was about 1/2 inch thick and the machine couldn't sew it. I put any new attempts on hold until I did some fabric and sewing research. So I feel I can now read a pattern and identify some of the fabrics that use natural fibers. So It's time to give it another go.

Stuben

[Stuben]

I think it would also help if you let us know what sort of garb you're making, or the kind of "character" you're intending to portray. You have the Margo Working Woman, but have bought brocade for the skirt. Were you thinking of going a little more upscale? Any chance you can post a photo of your gorgeous silk brocade (we love fabric here!!)?

Well, my friend didn't want to start with all the layers of a Noble so I thought the Working/middle class would be better to start with. We were torn between making it HA for middle class or just blinging it up for Faire. The seller made our decision for us. He tried a bait-and-switch so I asked for a refund. Surprisingly he already gave me one. So I think making each of us a middle class HA ensemble is the plan.

Stuben

[Stuben]

Here's a pic of the silk brocade that's not to be.

[DonaCatalina]

Once you've worn your garb to fair a few times, you will discover your preference goes in one of two directions. Either you want to stay with the simpler peasant garb and not worry about your clothes, or you want to look really fancy and go for full on court garb. That is why I encourage people to go as simple as possible in their first set of garb until they actually spend a whole day in it.
Many 'silk' brocades commercially available in the US are only 18% silk. If the balance of the fabric is polyester, you will feel like shake and bake very quickly.
That is why I search for cotton brocades, brocatelles and cotton velvet. It is a lot more predictable and usually machine washable. I use silks for shirts, chemises and some underskirts, where I can use Dupioni and not spend an arm and a leg.

[Stuben]

I ordered 7 yds of the white linen from Fabrics store. I'm going to heed the suggestions to start simpler. It should be enough to make our shirts. I think for now we are going to make middle class outfits of linen and wool and try to keep them HA.

What type and weight of wool would I use? It supposed to be a hotter than normal summer this year so I was thinking linen shirt and pants, and a doublet with a fashion fabric layer of wool.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions

Stuben

[Kate XXXXXX]

A linen doublet would be perfectly acceptable, as would a linen gown.  Use 'suit weight' linen for those.  If you want wool, choose a light weight 'tropical' wool in a plain colour: no stripes or checks.

[Stuben]

What would be "suit weight"? 6-7 oz?

[gem]

6-7 oz would be like canvas--good for corsetry or for the inner workings of a bodice or doublet. From Fabrics-store.com, the 5.3 oz IL019 is a great weight for dresses and would be good for a lighter weight doublet, but you'd want to have it pretty sturdily underlined. Milord likes that weight for shirts. He also likes their linen/cotton blend, which actually weighs less, but feels a bit beefier.

ETA: They will send you free swatches, which is a great way to get a feel (no pun intended!) for the different weights/hands.

[Stuben]

Thanks for the great info. We still haven't decided which direction we are going to go. I like the idea of HA outfits but she has her mind set on keeping it simple and using one of the commercial costume patterns. So more than likely I will give in 

Stuben

[isabelladangelo]

There is a compromise!   

There are actually a couple of very awesome Big 3 patterns for ladies historical wear.   For men, it's pretty easy to draft out what is wrong with it and make it a lot closer to H/A.  Simplicity 2589 (the Tudor style dress one) is an excellent pattern and 2621 is perfect for making all the underthings needed for most of the 16th C styles.  Both are h/a.  McCalls 4659 is a great doublet pattern - I have yet to see any of the big three get the pants correct but I typically don't do men's clothing so it might be out there.   The McCalls pattern is out of print but it's pretty easy for find on ebay or etsy.   

[Aderin]

Once you've worn your garb to fair a few times, you will discover your preference goes in one of two directions. Either you want to stay with the simpler peasant garb and not worry about your clothes, or you want to look really fancy and go for full on court garb. That is why I encourage people to go as simple as possible in their first set of garb until they actually spend a whole day in it.
Many 'silk' brocades commercially available in the US are only 18% silk. If the balance of the fabric is polyester, you will feel like shake and bake very quickly.
That is why I search for cotton brocades, brocatelles and cotton velvet. It is a lot more predictable and usually machine washable. I use silks for shirts, chemises and some underskirts, where I can use Dupioni and not spend an arm and a leg.

Thanks for this great advice! I will heed thy words and my pockets thank thee!