Patterns

[HannahLeeDee]

I believe there was a topic about this on the old forum and I hope I'm not asking a question that has already been discussed.


What patterns do you use to create a h/a court dress? Or other h/a garments? I know of Margo Anderson and Tudor Tailors but I was just wondering if there are any others. And what patterns are recommended for creating h/a clothing?

Thanks

Grizzabella

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

The Janet Arnold book...PATTERNS OF FASHION 1560 TO 1620 are as Hisatorically accurate as they come. Figuring the graphs,  the patterns can be traced onto clear sheets, then projected to paper using an overhead projector.

So far, Margo Anderson is one of the few designers of H/A  Elizabethan clothing patterns that are easy to follow and size. I just wish RECONSTRUCTING HISTORY had  a better way of illustrating their instructions than just written out.

[isabelladangelo]

Honestly?  Before I starting drafting my own or doing draping, I simply took the princess seams and darts out of commercial patterns and used those.  Shortening or lengthening a bodice is very easy.  Pleat a rectangle of fabric to the bodice and you have yourself a dress. 

However, Patterns of Fashion is the best.  I've used the graphs to base my own patterns off of.  I wouldn't simply enlarge the patterns in the book because the clothing was made to fit a specific person that probably had a different body type than you.  Figure out the important lines and make the outfit conform to your body while giving you the correct shape and style for the period.  The dress I'm working on right now is based off of one of the gowns in Patterns of Fashion.

[Baroness Doune]

A list of pattern links.

If you don't want to spend the money for Margo's Patterns (and I think the manual alone is worth the price - the pattern tissues are a bonus) there are plenty of free patterns available on the internet as the above link shows.  Simplicity 3782 has NO princess seam and NO darts and only needs to be fitted to the body of the wearer.

It is necessary to do a bit of research into what a historically accurate court gown looks like.  This website is an excellent starting point.  Websites with links to period portraiture are also helpful.  I also highly recommend the previously mentioned book, Patterns of Fashion, and The Tudor Tailor for the patterns and the construction techniques.

A properly fitted gown (specifically the bodice portion) will make or break your noble impression.  Be sure to take extra care in fitting the bodice properly regardless of what pattern you end up using.

[HannahLeeDee]

Thank you so much for all of the help. It is amazing how much information can be found through the people on these forums. You have no idea what my garb would look like without the advice on the forums. Thanks again

Grizzabella

[Lady Anne Clare]

A list of pattern links.

If you don't want to spend the money for Margo's Patterns (and I think the manual alone is worth the price - the pattern tissues are a bonus) there are plenty of free patterns available on the internet as the above link shows.  Simplicity 3782 has NO princess seam and NO darts and only needs to be fitted to the body of the wearer.

It is necessary to do a bit of research into what a historically accurate court gown looks like.  This website is an excellent starting point.  Websites with links to period portraiture are also helpful.  I also highly recommend the previously mentioned book, Patterns of Fashion, and The Tudor Tailor for the patterns and the construction techniques.

A properly fitted gown (specifically the bodice portion) will make or break your noble impression.  Be sure to take extra care in fitting the bodice properly regardless of what pattern you end up using.

I used Simplicity 3782.  I made the sleeves detachable and left out the bodice boning because I had proper underpinnings.  I will say though that I had a heck of a time getting the dress straps to stay on my shoulders which then caused the front to wrinkle a bit.

[silverstah]

You can also check out Reconstructing History (http://www.reconstructinghistory.com) - she has some lovely Tudor and Elizabethan patterns for both lower and upper classes. 

[Baroness Doune]

The problem with a large square neckline such as that found on Simplicity 3782 is that unless you are an athlete (muscular shoulders) and/or have broad shoulders and/or have square shoulders, the bodice made up just like it is and without any accommodating alterations is going have the straps slide off the shoulders.

Most people have to go down a size or two to fit narrower shoulders.  This is in addition to the size or two everyone goes down to keep the bodice from the big three from hanging on them like a sack.  Here is the shoulder width alteration done with Margo's patterns.
Back
Front
The same technique can be used with Simplicity 3782.

[Just Randall]

Best thing that we have discovered, is regardless of what pattern you use, you will need to make alterations to fit a particular body type.

To that end, $1.00 a yard fabric is your friend. Use the cheap stuff for cutting and altering until the fit is just right, dis-assemble, and use as pattern for your good, expensive fabric. cloth patterns also last longer than paper ones.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

That is why doing a mock up of a bodice is key in a  cheap fabric, then use that for the actual bodice. I have done that on the last 3 ensembles I have done for clients and no alterations needed once made. I make a duplicate for myself to go on once the client says....PERFECT FIT!!!

I like the Margo Patterns for the Bodice due to the strap that comes down the front that can ne adjusted for proper fit on the shoulder. Some shoulders  slope. Some are squared. Armhole circumfrence is also key for movements.

I used the TUDOR TAILOR book for guidance for the Tudor ensemble finished last month rather than the instructions from the RH pattern.  Having refference books handy also helps explain things as a 16th century tailor would make clothing.

All the info that can be gathered into our brains makes for garb that will last years.

[Lady Anne Clare]

The thing is is that my mock up did fit me and even the final bodice fit until I added the skirt which then put weight on it.  According to the picture on the package, the straps sit on the edge of the shoulder, so technically then, they are sitting where they're supposed to but the second I move my arms they slip.  I think I can adjust the straps still and I have some other adjustments I'd like to do before next year.  I find Simplicity patterns always need adjustments somewhere.

I have my eye on several Margo Anderson patterns, they look amazing.

[Cilean]

Patterns?

You can't beat Margo's Patterns are great just for the information she puts in the booklet that comes with it. Get a big notebook that you can put the patterns in the front and the booklet inside so that you can work with the patterns correctly.  wwwmargospatterns.com

Reconstructing History with Kass McGann has some awesome patterns as well and she had some brand new ones I need to add to my own collection:
www.reconstructinghistory.com

Lynn McMasters has some lovely things as well. I have made her partlet pattern and her hats are pretty easy and look tremendous. Plus? For $10.00? She will make you a pattern for your own special corset/Pair of bodies!!!

www.LynnMcMasters.com

Now for the less expensive but still awesome section?

Drea Lead is really a neat person to meet and chat with, I hope to continue with this the next time I get the chance, she is working on a new book and I will be in line to pick it up as soon as it is on the market. Drea's site was one of the first on the Net that had really good information that was easy to find

Drea has a Corset/Pair of bodies Generator and it works very well and cost $0!!!
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/custompat/index.html

Grace Gamble makes a pretty fair shirt or smock cost? $0!!!
http://www.houseffg.org/resources/Elizabethan_Shirt.pdf

Dawn's Pages has all sorts of patterns
http://www.reddawn.net/costume/shirt.htm

Now to Books

Oh my Gosh we have had such an amount of good books come out in just the last 5 years!! It is stupendous! I remember having to get a bridal gown and use the patterns from those!  I just hope it continues!!!


Tudor Tailor
Ninya and Jane came to the US in 2007 I think it was and we had a blast I learned so much from just 1 day, I hope when they come the the US again in 2009 to make it to several more talks.  The book and patterns and other various things you can find at:
www.tudortailor.com

Janet Arnold

What would I have done to have been able to learn from this lady.  While she has been gone these past 10 years, I can tell you that a new book will be out in November, there is a HUGE Florentine Costuming Extravaganza that many people will be attending from the US.  But the Book will be about Smocks and Shirtes and underthings. 

Here series is called "Periods of Fashion" or PoF I have the Period of Fashion 1550's to 1600's as well as her other books, and if you can get the Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd pick it up as fast as you can, as well as her what fell off of her majesties' back.

Juan de Alcega's book:   Tailor's Pattern Book 1589  this book is out of print but you can find it.


But I guess the thing I would most tell you is something others have said, when you get the chance get extra fabric throw away inexpensive fabric, I get 25 yards from Joann's when they have the 50% off sale for the .99 muslin.  This makes it $12.50 and I will get at least 2 so that I don't have to worry! It makes awesome kids shirts by the way as well!

Good Luck

Cilean

[Sorcha]

Men's Pirate Coat pattern anyone??
Butterick and McCalls are both out of print and the Simplicity seems to only have Womens.
It's hubby's next requested peice of garb.    I said I'd look into it and it's going to be called a "Captian's Coat" if it happens.

[silverstah]

Men's Pirate Coat pattern anyone??
Butterick and McCalls are both out of print and the Simplicity seems to only have Womens.
It's hubby's next requested peice of garb.    I said I'd look into it and it's going to be called a "Captian's Coat" if it happens.

http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/patterns.php?c=22&d=36&w=24&r=Y

Try the 1720's Frock Coat or the 1680's Justacorps. 

[Azen]

Men's Pirate Coat pattern anyone??

What about Simplicity 4923 http://simplicity.com/dv1_v4.cfm?design=4923