Contemplating a new Playtron dress

[LadyStitch]

The dress I have been wearing for the past two years for cold weather is something i made for when I was expecting my daughter.  I am itching to make something new.   I have plenty of warm weather garb but I want something for when the temperature is below 70.   I'm not into historically accurate, and I'm not into hoops. I've got a couple ideas but I need to bounce them off someone who won't be after me for HA. I have two fabric ideas, and three dress design ideas.

Fabric A - 7.5  yards of a nice mid weight rust colored wool I got for 6 bucks at a thrift shop.
Fabric B:  A friend gave me a tub full of 1.5 yard sections of various cottons, upholsters, and flannel pieces. Those are sewn together to make a fabric.


Option 1: Is it possible to make a close fitting high necked gown, that I can wear my corset over.
Option 2:  A full skirt, and a Victorian-esqu ladies bustle coat  Under it I would wear a high necked chemise, with my corset over the chemise.
Option3 : A Cassock style lined coat with attached  swirly skirt, that I would wear over the garb I already have.

[isabelladangelo]

You might want to change the title to show that you want a fantasy gown.   That being said, go with the wool for the under 70F.  Even though you say no H/A (I assume you have a fantasy fair, then?), I'd go with flemish garb based on the no hoops and the color of the wool you describe.  That with a nice dark colored apron (perfect for chasing little ones!) looks fabulous on. 

[LadyStitch]

The reason for the two fabrics that I have two looks I go for.  I have neutral color outfit that I wear that is "normal".  Then I have my pure character outfit which I have been slowly building.  My character is a little bit odd.  You see Stitch is the personal seamstress to all the ladies and gentry, but she can never afford the fabrics she makes for them.  She is left with their scraps. She takes their left overs and trys to make dresses for herself out of them.  This is why I would sew the scraps together to make a gown. I think a pitch patch fabric that is made into what appears to be a nice , slightly off style, gown. 

[isabelladangelo]

Maybe something more 18th Century in style then:



This is the insides of a jacket from the late 1780's/early 1790's.   You could easily flip that and make the patched part the outside.   

Or, for something a bit earlier in the 18th Century:



Believe it or not, they didn't really seam to use patches on clothing in the Renaissance commonly.  The first instances of patches (a piece of cloth that is clearly different that the fabric of the rest of the garment) is the late 17th Century.  Instead, all those extra bits were used as rags, stuffing, or quilted into a bedspread normally. 

[gem]

I vote Cossack coat, but only because I'm contemplating one myself right now.  Do you have any good links or patterns to recommend? (Wait--did you mean cassock, like a clergyman's gown, or Cossack, like Russian?)

I have a small Pinterest board for muddy & cold weather garb; that might give you some more ideas. (A couple of those things look very weird for the heading--but they match odd ideas floating around my head!) Also, Armstreet has some really gorgeous cold-weather things--lots of inspirational eye candy there! (Some with a fantastical spirit.) And, of course, there's always Viking garb.

Option 1 is very practical. You ought to have a high-necked smock/gown/something in your wardrobe anyway. I made one (M4107) from some embroidered muslin that very unexpectedly turned out to be quite warm! You can see it here under my Simplicity 2621 corset, and worn here, on a day when it was about 40 degrees in the morning. When the day heats up, you can just untie it and let the neckline open up.

I like Isabella's idea for the russet wool--also fun would be a German gown like the one Katafalk just posted; they lend themselves nicely to layers, and you could play around with your fancy fabric scraps in your accessories--the sleeves, guards, your gollar/partlet, little bags, fabulous hats, etc:

...And did somebody say patches? (Isabella, that portrait is WILD and so wonderful!)

[isabelladangelo]

Isn't it fun?  A lot of 18th Century portraits and figures show some pretty crazy patchwork.  I was trying to find the extant jacket I know of from the mid 18th Century that is completely insane with patches.

[isabelladangelo]

And this is Flemish:



If you wanted, you could do a sleeve out of one fabric, and another out of a different fabric.  (I want to say I've actually seen that done in the late 15th C/early 16th C...)   But this style will keep you warm!

[LadyStitch]

I vote Cossack coat, but only because I'm contemplating one myself right now.  Do you have any good links or patterns to recommend? (Wait--did you mean cassock, like a clergyman's gown, or Cossack, like Russian?)
I like Isabella's idea for the russet wool--also fun would be a German gown like the one Katafalk just posted; they lend themselves nicely to layers, and you could play around with your fancy fabric scraps in your accessories--the sleeves, guards, your gollar/partlet, little bags, fabulous hats, etc:
...And did somebody say patches? (Isabella, that portrait is WILD and so wonderful!)

Gem: Cossack as in Russian.  Honestly I don't like the Katafalk dress.  It is just not me.  As for your pinkrest outterwear board, the russian fur coat had my eye, but we don't get that cold here. 

The 18th century is actually closer to what I want.  Stitch is honestly any time period before 1900.  I am a profession costumer by trade so I really do make alot things for alot of different people but rarely do I get to make things for myself.  That is why I like a Tudor Partlet, paired with a  Tudor chamise, under a leather victorian  style corset made from old belts, then topper with a cavaler hat that has roses, and a Colorado ren faire rat.  I also have sewing impliment themed cotton flannel bloomers under it all, with brown and white striped stockings, and red and black mary janes.  I don't mind if a little 1870's is tossed in there because it makes me happy.

This is a photo of what I am wearing right now, but different partlet. I want to keep wearing that corset if at all possible.   

[isabelladangelo]

The corset looks very steampunk (modern).   You might want to go that route as well.

However, You might also like either a late 18th Century or early 19th Century pinner apron out of all the fabrics.   All a pinner apron is is this:




The first one is a Regency recreation, the second is from the late 18th Century.  Ladies of all stations wore pinner aprons.  One out of all the different fabrics would look neat - and would look nice over a 18th Century simple petticoat and jacket.   

[isabelladangelo]

And just for fun:

[LadyStitch]

The corset looks very steampunk (modern).   You might want to go that route as well.

Is there something wrong with the corset? 

That last dress is quite colorful

[isabelladangelo]

The corset isn't Victorian - it is Steampunk.  The buckles on a Victorian corset would be to the side - over elastic.   There also wouldn't be such a difference between the underarms and the bustline.  Most Victorian corsets were made out of some sort of cotton or brocade.   I don't recall any leather ones but that doesn't mean they didn't have them.  Many stays (18th Century going back) were out of leather.  However the shape was different. 

It's not "wrong" as much as it's simply not Victorian.   If you do go the steampunk route, you might want to go with a shurg and a patchwork skirt.    Actually, if you *really* wanted to have fun, you could do a lego of mutton (1890's) shrug but make the sleeves look hot air balloons.  That would be very steampunk.

[gem]

A steampunk seamstress would be AWESOME! You'd have to figure out the steampunk elements (a steam-powered sewing machine seems... impractical, with a toddler in tow at Fair  ), but clothing-wise, maybe something like this Venefica ensemble, with all the different fabrics?



The front of that jacket is practically a shrug--which fits in well with your "ran out of fabric" bit.

I'm thinking a seamstress to nobles would have clothes that are *exquisitely* made--really up to the standards of her clients--but just barely eked out of the leftovers. Not so much a patchy ragamuffin.

None of that helps with the warmth issue, however!

[LadyStitch]

Actually that is more what I'm leaning towards Gem.  Funny you and I seem to have a better mind set. 
I have a collar that has spools of thread on it, bottles with needles, then the center "jewel" is a pair of stork embroidery scissors.   

I think this may just have to be two( and a half) projects. 

• A simple base wool dress that I can wear when it is cool.  This means I can put my corset over the top of it.  Should it be high collar or neck open for decorative partlets? 
• OR a basic bodice, and a Parlor skirt , with the corset over it.
  
• The second part is a decorative over jacket/borelro, all covered in a manner of sewing stuff, Then a possible over skirt.  All made from the large scraps.   

1)   

As a seamstress I would always make my things be well made, however they would be made from the left overs, IE I would take the bits and make things.  Think along the lines of cuff from one fabric, collar another, part of the bodice another.  All well made but just different fabrics.

This brings us to the question.... "My goal is to make something for cooler weather that would play into this seamstress vibe.  What should I make that would work towards this goal? "

[Trillium]

Sounds to me like you have a few different projects!  Personally, I would love to see the Cossack coat!  It would be warm enough for our goofy fall Texas weather and can be easily removed when it warms up.    A fun steampunk seamstress would awesome too.  It would blend right in at our faires!  And you could wear that coat over it if it gets cold....    ( and I think that corset is awesome!)

[LadyStitch]

Sounds to me like you have a few different projects!  Personally, I would love to see the Cossack coat!  It would be warm enough for our goofy fall Texas weather and can be easily removed when it warms up.    A fun steampunk seamstress would awesome too.  It would blend right in at our faires!  And you could wear that coat over it if it gets cold....    ( and I think that corset is awesome!)

My original concept drawing for the Lady Stitch garb was for her to have a coat of some sort that was covered in sewing implements, and pockets with sewing things in them.  (Am i the only one who could see other rennies come up to me or being told to find me if they have a garb malfunction? ) I like the idea of the Coassak coat for the coat to go over everything, that way I could layer. No sense for the PP to be the only one wearing a 'couch' on cold days. 

So the coat option is settled. On to the dress,  should it be one piece or two piece? And if one piece, any suggestions on pattern? I have S1773, but it has a zipper. B4827 has a laced back but will it be a hinderance under that corset.

Trillium,  It was made by a wonderfully sweet recycled leather worker, named CC Guice. She runs A Wench in the Gear.   She believe is reusing things.  All her corsets, hats, and other items she makes from discarded, and 'destroyed' leather items.  Her favorite is getting her hands on a ruined leather couch that some one is throwing away.  None of her pieces are identical for that reason.  Funny enough we found her online, but she lives a mile from the house I grew up in.  You can look her work up online, or on facebook.

[isabelladangelo]

I think you are trying to complicate this a bit.  :-)  Too much will look like too much.  Here is an example of a Steampunk Tailor:

DSC01215 par Isabella, on ipernity

His hat is a sewing machine.  :-)

I've also seen a lady that did a bustle skirt that had a false front.  She could flip open the false front to show a whole bunch of clear pockets that held her cell phone, keys, ect. 

[PollyPoPo]

 (Am i the only one who could see other rennies come up to me or being told to find me if they have a garb malfunction? )

Nope; I was just thinking that myself. 

[LadyStitch]

(Am i the only one who could see other rennies come up to me or being told to find me if they have a garb malfunction? )
Nope; I was just thinking that myself. 

I actually had it happen at Rendevous 3 years ago.  I kept getting stopped to help with garb problems even at the hotel.  I didn't complain. I got free beer

Trust me if you think this outfit is complicated you don't want to see some of my other projects in works One of which will involved about 100 buttons and button holes

[mollymishap]

Isn't it fun?  A lot of 18th Century portraits and figures show some pretty crazy patchwork.  I was trying to find the extant jacket I know of from the mid 18th Century that is completely insane with patches.

Is it the one made from bits of cream and green cut-velvet? I was thinking about that garment while reading this thread and then I read your post...I know I've seen that somewhere--maybe in a book--it's going to bug me now until I can find it...

[LadyStitch]

On to the dress,  should it be one piece or two piece? And if one piece, any suggestions on pattern? I have S1773, but it has a zipper. B4827 has a laced back but will it be a hindrance under that corset.

Since we settled most of this, I still need opinion on what style of dress to make from the wool.  Rust colored 10-12 oz wool.  Suggestions on pattern?

[gem]

Stitch, walk us through your new plan. How are you envisioning the rust wool dress? Do you want it to go with the leather corset somehow? In that case, maybe something like Simplicity 2172? (More of a suit than a dress, really.) I have seen gads of these made up, and it always seems to turn out really sharp.

...Or were you thinking of something that would go with your new partlet? Like a kirtle with sleeves? (Having trouble combining partlet + non-H/A; sorry!)

...Or perhaps you need a dress to wear under the Cossack coat. In which case maybe one of the Big 4 LOTR patterns? Simplicity and McCall both put out Eowyn/Arwen patterns that would look lovely in wool.

[isabelladangelo]

Is it the one made from bits of cream and green cut-velvet? I was thinking about that garment while reading this thread and then I read your post...I know I've seen that somewhere--maybe in a book--it's going to bug me now until I can find it...

I honestly can't remember.  All I recall is that it was an 18th Century patchwork jacket.  :-)

[LadyStitch]

Stitch, walk us through your new plan. How are you envisioning the rust wool dress? Do you want it to go with the leather corset somehow? In that case, maybe something like Simplicity 2172? (More of a suit than a dress, really.) I have seen gads of these made up, and it always seems to turn out really sharp.
...Or were you thinking of something that would go with your new partlet? Like a kirtle with sleeves? (Having trouble combining partlet + non-H/A; sorry!)
...Or perhaps you need a dress to wear under the Cossack coat. In which case maybe one of the Big 4 LOTR patterns? Simplicity and McCall both put out Eowyn/Arwen patterns that would look lovely in wool.

My mind is some where in here. http://butterick.mccall.com/b4827-products-6120.php?page_id=385 with the the corset over it. Or http://sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/55695 View C.   http://sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/4459 View B dress I like, but I detest those hanging sleeves. http://sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/1799 I like view3 C on this but the way the collar is made is detestable to make.  I had to make a customer a red velvet gown of this and the collar never did turn out right.  Then again that was 8 years ago.

My only concern is how will a zipper react under a corset?  My previous dress was the base dress from this pattern. http://www.amazon.com/Simplicity-Size-RR-14-Renaissance/dp/B009NI7TXG

[gem]

Ok, I think I see where your mind is at... perhaps some help envisioning a fantasy-medieval ensemble in orange?



...And the same chemise, several years later:



I can easily see your leather corset fitting right in! (This is the most basic of basic chemises--elastic neckline, raglan angel sleeves. I think there was a Big4 pattern about 10+ years ago... I want to say a girl in yellow with a cropped blue bodice? You might have something in your stash.)  I think one of the things that works about this is the angel wing sleeves. All that flowiness just asks for a hard element to help control it.

[LadyStitch]

Yes I do have that pattern in my stash... I think.  http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/131147772150?lpid=82  Is that the one you were thinking of?

The dress is for warmth, so the angle wings wouldn't work but the other long sleeves might.  But, can you see from the neckline why I might want a partlet on it?

[isabelladangelo]

I still think something more like this Cranach dress would be better.  You could do the skirt as different panels of fabric like this dress and it would be warm.

[Rani Zemirah]

My mind is some where in here. http://butterick.mccall.com/b4827-products-6120.php?page_id=385 with the the corset over it.   http://sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/4459 View B dress I like, but I detest those hanging sleeves.

My only concern is how will a zipper react under a corset?

M'LadyStitch, the body of these two particular dresses that you posted seem similar to my admittedly untrained eye, with the major difference being mainly the sleeve?  I think this silhouette would be lovely with your leather corset!  So if you prefer the fitted sleeve, especially if added warmth is your goal, then could you use the sleeve portion of the Butterick 4827 pattern with the rest of the Simplicity 4940 pattern to create the exact gown you're wanting?  And instead of  fussing with an awkward collar you could always just make a separate partlet for the neckline... maybe even made of patchwork? 

I think that with your skills you could do away with a zipper opening, if it were called for in the pattern, and create a lace-up opening, so you wouldn't have to worry about having a zipper under your corset.  I agree that might not be very comfortable! 


I know you said no hoops, but what about a very full patchwork petticoat?  I could also envision your amazing corset over something like this, with just a slightly less full skirt:

(only with the fitted sleeve, instead of the bell sleeve, of course)


In the rust, of course... but maybe you could make the front inset from patchwork?  I think the square neckline would be lovely with a partlet, as well. 

The Armstreet "Medieval Dress with Corset Belt" might also fit the style you're going for:



It has a bit of a higher neckline, but could also work with a partlet, I think... and would be just as beautiful with an overbust corset as with the shorter underbust. 


I also ran across this photo of a coat that would be pretty with these styles:




It looks like a medium weight linen, maybe, so it wouldn't be too heavy... but it could be made from a heavier weight, or even a wool, if you were wanting something for those really chilly Sherwood mornings. 

[LadyStitch]

In look previous projects, I am thinking I may go with Or http://sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/55695 View C.  I like the neck line.  And there is something about those buttons on the sleeves that I like.  I got my hands on button loop tape. and bulk little pearl buttons.  The loop tape is what is done with the back of wedding dresses.  No more dealing with little bits of cording!  Then with buttons in bulk, no hunting for 12 cards of the same button. 

I'm half tempted to do the zipper in the back, because either way the corset over other  grommets is going to bad as well.  thoughts?