Contemplating a new Playtron dress

[LadyStitch]

The dress I have been wearing for the past two years for cold weather is something i made for when I was expecting my daughter.  I am itching to make something new.   I have plenty of warm weather garb but I want something for when the temperature is below 70.   I'm not into historically accurate, and I'm not into hoops. I've got a couple ideas but I need to bounce them off someone who won't be after me for HA. I have two fabric ideas, and three dress design ideas.

Fabric A - 7.5  yards of a nice mid weight rust colored wool I got for 6 bucks at a thrift shop.
Fabric B:  A friend gave me a tub full of 1.5 yard sections of various cottons, upholsters, and flannel pieces. Those are sewn together to make a fabric.


Option 1: Is it possible to make a close fitting high necked gown, that I can wear my corset over.
Option 2:  A full skirt, and a Victorian-esqu ladies bustle coat  Under it I would wear a high necked chemise, with my corset over the chemise.
Option3 : A Cassock style lined coat with attached  swirly skirt, that I would wear over the garb I already have.

[isabelladangelo]

You might want to change the title to show that you want a fantasy gown.   That being said, go with the wool for the under 70F.  Even though you say no H/A (I assume you have a fantasy fair, then?), I'd go with flemish garb based on the no hoops and the color of the wool you describe.  That with a nice dark colored apron (perfect for chasing little ones!) looks fabulous on. 

[LadyStitch]

The reason for the two fabrics that I have two looks I go for.  I have neutral color outfit that I wear that is "normal".  Then I have my pure character outfit which I have been slowly building.  My character is a little bit odd.  You see Stitch is the personal seamstress to all the ladies and gentry, but she can never afford the fabrics she makes for them.  She is left with their scraps. She takes their left overs and trys to make dresses for herself out of them.  This is why I would sew the scraps together to make a gown. I think a pitch patch fabric that is made into what appears to be a nice , slightly off style, gown. 

[isabelladangelo]

Maybe something more 18th Century in style then:



This is the insides of a jacket from the late 1780's/early 1790's.   You could easily flip that and make the patched part the outside.   

Or, for something a bit earlier in the 18th Century:



Believe it or not, they didn't really seam to use patches on clothing in the Renaissance commonly.  The first instances of patches (a piece of cloth that is clearly different that the fabric of the rest of the garment) is the late 17th Century.  Instead, all those extra bits were used as rags, stuffing, or quilted into a bedspread normally. 

[gem]

I vote Cossack coat, but only because I'm contemplating one myself right now.  Do you have any good links or patterns to recommend? (Wait--did you mean cassock, like a clergyman's gown, or Cossack, like Russian?)

I have a small Pinterest board for muddy & cold weather garb; that might give you some more ideas. (A couple of those things look very weird for the heading--but they match odd ideas floating around my head!) Also, Armstreet has some really gorgeous cold-weather things--lots of inspirational eye candy there! (Some with a fantastical spirit.) And, of course, there's always Viking garb.

Option 1 is very practical. You ought to have a high-necked smock/gown/something in your wardrobe anyway. I made one (M4107) from some embroidered muslin that very unexpectedly turned out to be quite warm! You can see it here under my Simplicity 2621 corset, and worn here, on a day when it was about 40 degrees in the morning. When the day heats up, you can just untie it and let the neckline open up.

I like Isabella's idea for the russet wool--also fun would be a German gown like the one Katafalk just posted; they lend themselves nicely to layers, and you could play around with your fancy fabric scraps in your accessories--the sleeves, guards, your gollar/partlet, little bags, fabulous hats, etc:

...And did somebody say patches? (Isabella, that portrait is WILD and so wonderful!)

[isabelladangelo]

Isn't it fun?  A lot of 18th Century portraits and figures show some pretty crazy patchwork.  I was trying to find the extant jacket I know of from the mid 18th Century that is completely insane with patches.

[isabelladangelo]

And this is Flemish:



If you wanted, you could do a sleeve out of one fabric, and another out of a different fabric.  (I want to say I've actually seen that done in the late 15th C/early 16th C...)   But this style will keep you warm!

[LadyStitch]

I vote Cossack coat, but only because I'm contemplating one myself right now.  Do you have any good links or patterns to recommend? (Wait--did you mean cassock, like a clergyman's gown, or Cossack, like Russian?)
I like Isabella's idea for the russet wool--also fun would be a German gown like the one Katafalk just posted; they lend themselves nicely to layers, and you could play around with your fancy fabric scraps in your accessories--the sleeves, guards, your gollar/partlet, little bags, fabulous hats, etc:
...And did somebody say patches? (Isabella, that portrait is WILD and so wonderful!)

Gem: Cossack as in Russian.  Honestly I don't like the Katafalk dress.  It is just not me.  As for your pinkrest outterwear board, the russian fur coat had my eye, but we don't get that cold here. 

The 18th century is actually closer to what I want.  Stitch is honestly any time period before 1900.  I am a profession costumer by trade so I really do make alot things for alot of different people but rarely do I get to make things for myself.  That is why I like a Tudor Partlet, paired with a  Tudor chamise, under a leather victorian  style corset made from old belts, then topper with a cavaler hat that has roses, and a Colorado ren faire rat.  I also have sewing impliment themed cotton flannel bloomers under it all, with brown and white striped stockings, and red and black mary janes.  I don't mind if a little 1870's is tossed in there because it makes me happy.

This is a photo of what I am wearing right now, but different partlet. I want to keep wearing that corset if at all possible.   

[isabelladangelo]

The corset looks very steampunk (modern).   You might want to go that route as well.

However, You might also like either a late 18th Century or early 19th Century pinner apron out of all the fabrics.   All a pinner apron is is this:




The first one is a Regency recreation, the second is from the late 18th Century.  Ladies of all stations wore pinner aprons.  One out of all the different fabrics would look neat - and would look nice over a 18th Century simple petticoat and jacket.   

[isabelladangelo]

And just for fun:

[LadyStitch]

The corset looks very steampunk (modern).   You might want to go that route as well.

Is there something wrong with the corset? 

That last dress is quite colorful

[isabelladangelo]

The corset isn't Victorian - it is Steampunk.  The buckles on a Victorian corset would be to the side - over elastic.   There also wouldn't be such a difference between the underarms and the bustline.  Most Victorian corsets were made out of some sort of cotton or brocade.   I don't recall any leather ones but that doesn't mean they didn't have them.  Many stays (18th Century going back) were out of leather.  However the shape was different. 

It's not "wrong" as much as it's simply not Victorian.   If you do go the steampunk route, you might want to go with a shurg and a patchwork skirt.    Actually, if you *really* wanted to have fun, you could do a lego of mutton (1890's) shrug but make the sleeves look hot air balloons.  That would be very steampunk.

[gem]

A steampunk seamstress would be AWESOME! You'd have to figure out the steampunk elements (a steam-powered sewing machine seems... impractical, with a toddler in tow at Fair  ), but clothing-wise, maybe something like this Venefica ensemble, with all the different fabrics?



The front of that jacket is practically a shrug--which fits in well with your "ran out of fabric" bit.

I'm thinking a seamstress to nobles would have clothes that are *exquisitely* made--really up to the standards of her clients--but just barely eked out of the leftovers. Not so much a patchy ragamuffin.

None of that helps with the warmth issue, however!

[LadyStitch]

Actually that is more what I'm leaning towards Gem.  Funny you and I seem to have a better mind set. 
I have a collar that has spools of thread on it, bottles with needles, then the center "jewel" is a pair of stork embroidery scissors.   

I think this may just have to be two( and a half) projects. 

• A simple base wool dress that I can wear when it is cool.  This means I can put my corset over the top of it.  Should it be high collar or neck open for decorative partlets? 
• OR a basic bodice, and a Parlor skirt , with the corset over it.
  
• The second part is a decorative over jacket/borelro, all covered in a manner of sewing stuff, Then a possible over skirt.  All made from the large scraps.   

1)   

As a seamstress I would always make my things be well made, however they would be made from the left overs, IE I would take the bits and make things.  Think along the lines of cuff from one fabric, collar another, part of the bodice another.  All well made but just different fabrics.

This brings us to the question.... "My goal is to make something for cooler weather that would play into this seamstress vibe.  What should I make that would work towards this goal? "

[Trillium]

Sounds to me like you have a few different projects!  Personally, I would love to see the Cossack coat!  It would be warm enough for our goofy fall Texas weather and can be easily removed when it warms up.    A fun steampunk seamstress would awesome too.  It would blend right in at our faires!  And you could wear that coat over it if it gets cold....    ( and I think that corset is awesome!)