Florentine overgown skirt musings

[gem]

So I'm taking a break from the brain-taxing Promenade gown to finish up the Florentine ensemble I started last summer.  I'm trying to decide how I want the skirts on the overgown, and thought while I was musing, I might as well muse out loud and let y'all have some fun musing, too.

My gamurra (the undergown) is very un-historically open down the front of the skirts, so originally I was planning to have the overgown closed down the front/open down the sides... but now I can't decide.  I could probably pin the gamurra skirts closed so my chemise doesn't show when I wear the whole ensemble.

I'm also not sure how much fullness I want in the skirts.  I've seen the fronts of overgowns that are gently pleated, heavily pleated, and absolutely flat.

So, do I want...
1.) Open down the front, no pleats, like Jen Thompson's?

2.) Open down the front, lightly pleated, like this one I found (sorry; don't know where that picture comes from).

3.) Open at the sides, no pleats, like Lynn McMasters's?

4.) Closed in front, heavily pleated, like Caterucia at the Realm of Venus?

At this point, I'm not terribly concerned with being H/A--more "historically inspired."  I'll also mention that I've been staring at the pictures of Caterucia's and Lynn McMasters's gowns for two years now, trying to make up my mind.  It's time to just choose something, dangit!  My undergown is chocolate brown linen, and the overgown will be a butter yellow damask, if that helps.  Also, this entire project was originally inspired by this manuscript picture. I have a blue-purple gown almost identical to that, and wanted to do a recreation.  However, I lost 50 lbs and the blue gown doesn't fit anymore!  Hence the brown undergown.

Ok, talk amongst yourselves!

[sealion]

I like them all and have them saved on my computer, too! LOL
I'm voting for #3 because a) I think closed front will work better with your open front gamurra, b) unpleated will show off the pattern of the fabric better and, c) unpleated will require less yardage.

[Trillium]

I like the look of #3.

[silverstah]

I rather like option #4 myself.

[Joyce "Delfinia DuSwallow" Howard]

I also vote for #3,I really like that look.

[Cilean]

I love the side opening because it helps with heat. I think Jen's or Lynn's would look smashing.

Cilean

[gypsylakat]

I like number 3..

[guinea]

My vote is #4

[theatrekat]

my vote is for #3

[Randal]

I guess I'm the odd man out; I like #1.

Randal

[Artemisia]

Your talking about the giornea, right? Then #3, because I'm partial to that style.

Give me a couple days - I took an AWESOME giornea construction class at Pennsic. I can take pictures of the handout for you.

The closed, pleated version is a cioppa. The giornea and cioppa were used at the same time. Ooo! I thinks I may have notes on that one too...

::rummages through Pennsic stuff::

[gem]

Thanks, everyone! 

I'm wondering, though, if we're all loving #3 because it's just so darn glorious with the colors and the long train and that unbelievable beading.  I'm not so sure that the silhouette is that flattering, plus my undergown doesn't flow like that one (mine's linen, not velvet, and it has no train).  Believe me, I've been swayed by that picture for years, and it's hard to look beyond the beautiful construction and embellishment and evaluate the *shape.*  Hence my indecision!  (Cindy, my damask has only a small diamond/harlequin pattern, not the lovely big swirls and arabesques).

Oh--here's a picture:


Artemisia, YES, thank you so much!  There is so little information online about chioppas that I can't even find a definition of what one *was.*  I would love any information you're willing to share!

Hmm... now, I'm wondering... I love the look of the big pleats in the back of Jen's overgown... there's really no reason I couldn't do the Lynn McMaster's version with a *pleated* back, is there?  Oooh....

[gem]

Ok, I have consulted with Milord, and he is in agreement with all of you (most of you, sorry, Laura and Randall).  He prefers the look of closed down the front, open up the sides (he said, "You look good in your dress that opens up the sides..." I have no idea what dress he's talking about; perhaps this is a fantasy he had? LOL).  So, anyway, I now have to figure out how one gets in and out of such a thing, as well as how much fabric I need in the skirt.  It looks like I bought something like 85 yards of fabric, so I think I'll have plenty....

(I must admit, however, that Milord's opinion overall on this matter is a bit suspect; he's not a fan of damask, a fact that makes me gasp in horror.)

[Anna Iram]

OMGosh Gem. I remeber when you posted that picture and began the thought of hat to make. Glad to see it's in the plans. Gives me hope for that eight yards of terracotta that just can't decide what it wants to be.

A bit too late maybe, but I like # 3 as well. Would it be laced at the sides?

[gem]

Anna, great memory--wow!! 

I've been looking at closeups of the bodice, and it looks like the McMasters one is just a tabard style--the belt holds everything together.  Since I am not a dressform, I think I'll put a couple of eyelets in the sides.  That should make it so I can drop it over my head, but it won't flop around on me.