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Which weight of interfacting to use...

Started by Margaret, January 12, 2009, 06:39:53 AM

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Margaret

I have some pretty dupioni silk that I plan on turning into a doublet.

The issue at hand is that I don't want to to be too wrinkled in appearance, so I plan on backing it with some fusable interfacing for some stability.  I am just unsure of which weight to go with.

The light weight stuff seems too, well - light weight and I have not found anything else that I am totally happy with.

So, suggest way please!   :)
Mistress Margaret Baynham
The Sweete Ladye
IWG #1656 MCL
wench.org (IWG forums)
ibrsc.org (IBRSC forums)

Lady Kathleen of Olmsted

Margaret!!!


If at all possible, DO NOT USE fusible Interfacing on Dupioni Silk. Use instead a Quilter's Broadcloth or a 100% Cotton Twill to underline the Silk, then line it.

Fusible Interfacing bubbles when there is too much heat. There are also  non-fusible, loosely woven interfacings used for Suit making that require hand basting. Something like tht would give the Dupioni Silk body and still breathe.
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

DonaCatalina

***awakes from swoon***
;)

I use quilter's 100% cotton fabric to line dupioni if it's a part of the doublet that needs body.
That usually provides more than enough body for doublets and jerkins.
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit
Marquesa de Trives
Portrait Goddess

Kate XXXXXX

I have to concur.  Fusible interfacing (especially th non-woven stuff) is death on dupion silk.  Use a light weight tailoring canvas (sew in type), or silk organza.  With the organza, you can add to layers for body while adding very little weight.

Syrilla

Listen to the Ladies, You will be on your hand and knees thanking them for stopping you.

Lady Kathleen of Olmsted



Margaret!!

One of my upcoming commissions is an Elizabethan gown that will be made from an embroidered Dupioni Silk for the Overskirt and Bodice. I will be using a heavier Quilter's Broiadcloth to both Underline and Line the bodice. There will be 2 layers of Cotton Canvas Duck as well for a firmer, unwrinkled look. I have plemty of the Broadcloth for the Underskirt as well to set the forepart on.

I hope you have chosen not to use fusible interfacing.
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

Artemisia

/on nosy/
What's quilters cotton? I tried googling it and can't find it.
Can you provide a link, pretty please?

Artemisia Moltabocca
You haven't had enough coffee unless you can thread a sewing machine while it's running.

Lady Kathleen of Olmsted



Quilter's Broadcloth is a heavier, sturdier Cotton Broadcloth. JoAnn and Hancock Fabrics carry it. It's what Quilter's use to reinforce their layers with.
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

Margaret

#8
Quote from: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on January 14, 2009, 09:10:42 AM



I hope you have chosen not to use fusible interfacing.

Oh - I am still working on the toile for fitting, so I am no where near cutting or lining the main fabric yet.

Just getting my ducks in a row, so thanks for the advise everyone!   :-*
Mistress Margaret Baynham
The Sweete Ladye
IWG #1656 MCL
wench.org (IWG forums)
ibrsc.org (IBRSC forums)

Artemisia

Quote from: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on January 14, 2009, 12:11:19 PM


Quilter's Broadcloth is a heavier, sturdier Cotton Broadcloth. JoAnn and Hancock Fabrics carry it. It's what Quilter's use to reinforce their layers with.

You mean this?
http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog.jsp?CATID=cat3077&PRODID=prd14825
Artemisia Moltabocca
You haven't had enough coffee unless you can thread a sewing machine while it's running.

Lady Kathleen of Olmsted

"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde