An odd question if I may...

[LadySeasan]

I know this is a stupid, stupid question. But it has really confused me. 

Generally when I make gowns (or at least my watered down versions of gowns, I do a separate bodice and skirt.  Now I've been viewing a lot of gowns, where it appears to be one piece.  So here are my three (stupid) questions

1-how do you sew the skirt onto the bodice. Is it as simple as just literally sewing the skirt on to the bottom of the bodice?

and

2-how do you manage to get into the outfit??? Because if the only thing that laces up is the back of the bodice (in some cases) then how do you actually get into it.  I'm assuming you need assistance to have the whole gown lifted over your head?

and

3-during construction of the bodice and the overskirt.  do you completely finish the bodice (layers and such), and completely finish the skirt (hemming and such) before sewing the two together.  like i am assuming the easiest way for me would be to pleat my overskirt to a band, and then sew that band to the bodice?


The reason I ask this is because this year I really, REALLY want to have like a full blown gorgeous gown. And now that I am not afraid to pleat anything anymore (last year I had this illogical fear of pleating anything), I am looking forward to having a nicely pleated overskirt, and I personally think it will look better if the skirt and bodice are attached.

As always, your help/advice is appreciated.

If it wasn't for you ladies, I would be bored out of my mind since I am at home on disability!

[sealion]

1- Yes, you do just sew the skirt to the bodice. I have simply gathered or pleated the skirt fabric and machine stitched it to the outer bodice fabric then handstitched the lining over it. I have also handstitched cartridge pleated skirts to the finished bottom of the bodice. I actually find this method easier.
2- I put a slit about 6" into the skirt corresponding to the lacing postition (front, back, or side). And, yes, I do need help to get into and out of the gown in my avi becasue it is very heavy and side-back lacing. I have made a point of making sure my camping garb is stuff I can get in and out of on my own.
3- I did one gown with a finished skirt with a waistband that was stitched inside the bodice (per the Margo Anderson instructions) and ended up taking it apart, getting rid of the waistband, and stitching the skirt to the bottom of the bodice because it was just too bulky with the waistband. That was the dress in my avitar with very heavy fabric. I have since done an Elizabethan bodice and skirt of wool/silk twill that are not stitched together but use hooks and eyes to prevent gapping at the waist.

[LadySeasan]

Thanks Sealion, that definitely clears a lot up in my head. LoL.

[sealion]

The only stupid question is the one left unasked.
I've been teaching myself to sew by reading a lot of dress diaries and asking a lot of questions. I didn't sew when I joined this forum.

[LadySeasan]

[Lady Neysa]

Lady Seasan, thanks for asking those questions, because they are things I've wondered about as well.  I'm still in the baby steps stage of learning to sew myself. 

[LadySeasan]

Lady Seasan, thanks for asking those questions, because they are things I've wondered about as well.  I'm still in the baby steps stage of learning to sew myself. 

lol no problem
i've learned A LOT from these ladies and this forum over the years. I went from barely sewing to making gowns, i feel quite proud of myself.

of course i am the type of person to use work arounds, but hey-as long as i am having fun doing it, then having fun at the fair, im good

[Lady L]

Simplicity 3782 has good directions for what you are asking. 

http://www.simplicity.com/dv1_v4.cfm?design=3782

When I made a one piece gown, I sewed the bottom of the bodice of the good fabric to the skirt. Then, I sewed the lining down over the seam on the inside. Yes, as has been mentioned, you should leave a few inches open in the skirt to allow for getting it on, if it is back lacing. I made mine front lacing, so I could get into it by myself.

[LadySeasan]

i keep seeing that pattern, but have yet to purchase it. i think the universe is telling me to buy it lol

[Lady L]

Well, if you get it on sale for $1.99, how can you go wrong? Directions and diagrams (plus pattern pieces if you need that) for $1.99, it's a good deal.

[operafantomet]

1-how do you sew the skirt onto the bodice. Is it as simple as just literally sewing the skirt on to the bottom of the bodice?

and

2-how do you manage to get into the outfit??? Because if the only thing that laces up is the back of the bodice (in some cases) then how do you actually get into it.  I'm assuming you need assistance to have the whole gown lifted over your head?

and

3-during construction of the bodice and the overskirt.  do you completely finish the bodice (layers and such), and completely finish the skirt (hemming and such) before sewing the two together.  like i am assuming the easiest way for me would be to pleat my overskirt to a band, and then sew that band to the bodice?

1. Don't attach the skirt to the bottom of the bodice - attach it where the skirt would meet the bodice if you had worn them separately. This spot can be found if you wear the bodice inside-out and wears the skirt on top (over the bodice). Mark the spots you need to attach it. Pin it on the right way and try it on to see that the fit is good (I.E. looks correct and is comfortable). If it's good, stitch it on. A theatre costume trick is to only attach some choosen areas (like every 5th inch), and then only with elastics (sewn to the skirt) being buttoned to the bodice on the inside. That way you have a very flexible outfit, and it's easy to remove the skirt (dry-cleaning, resewing or whatever). I've never tried it myself, but I've seen it multiple theatre costumes.

2. I have some dresses that close up in front, and some in the back. Those who has a back-closing is a nightmare to get into alone, you're quite right about that (although lacing is a tad easier than hooks and eyes). But it IS possible. I have front-lacing for three Renaissance dresses, back-closing for one, and side-lacing for two. All of these has the slit of the skirt following the opening of the bodice, and all of these has the skirt attached to the bodice.

FRONT LACED:
http://aneafiles.webs.com/raphael.html
http://aneafiles.webs.com/venetian.html
http://aneafiles.webs.com/bordone.html

SIDE LACED:
http://aneafiles.webs.com/unicorn.html
http://aneafiles.webs.com/peacock.html

BACK CLOSED:
http://aneafiles.webs.com/bronzino.html


3. Yes, you definitely need to finish bodice and skirt separately before attaching them. If you attach the pleated skirt to a waistband before sewing it to the bodice, you make life a lot easier for yourself. This way you can remove the skirt without having to re-pleat it in the future. I personally also think it's more comfortable to have the skirt fixed to the bodice, as I can move as much as I like without the skirt going astray. I noticed a huge difference in the last big dress project (which admittedly isn't SCA related), and as this is the only one I have an online picture of the inside, I've posted it underneath. Dunno if that helps you at all, but ah well:



(dress site: http://aneafiles.webs.com/aminta.html )

I hope this helped. That, along with all the other excellent replies here, should take you far. 

[Genievea Brookstone]

I know that is the inside of the gown but that bottom finish looks amazing Operafantomet!

LadySeasan  thank you for asking that question as I have often wondered about it too. Looks like I will be ripping some lining out to attach the skirts to make life easier.

And I agree, I have learned so much from reading these post from the many many talented women here.

[DonaCatalina]

1-how do you sew the skirt onto the bodice. Is it as simple as just literally sewing the skirt on to the bottom of the bodice?
- I sew the skirts to the bodice (mostly) my skirt pattern has a V in the front that allows me to pleat onto the V of the bodice front.
and

2-how do you manage to get into the outfit??? Because if the only thing that laces up is the back of the bodice (in some cases) then how do you actually get into it.  I'm assuming you need assistance to have the whole gown lifted over your head?
- I leave about a 6" long opening in the back on the skirt to extend the bodice opening. That is hooked shut. My Lord, the Marques, generously lifts the dress over my head.-
and

3-during construction of the bodice and the overskirt.  do you completely finish the bodice (layers and such), and completely finish the skirt (hemming and such) before sewing the two together.  like i am assuming the easiest way for me would be to pleat my overskirt to a band, and then sew that band to the bodice?
-I mostly finish the inside except around the waist. The last thing I do is attach the skirt (except for hemming) and then finish the waist seam as much as I can.

---Now regardless of what some might tell you, not everything was cartridge pleated. Look up the disection of Eleanorr de Toledo's dress and you'll find a fairly flat front with box pleating graduating towards the back.  

[LadySeasan]

Wow! Thanks so much ladies, this has all been very helpful

[Dinobabe]

I, too, have always wondered about that.  I just haven't gotten that far in my sewing prowess and so hadn't asked.  Thanks!