Sproingy seam allowances?

[gem]

I'm finishing up the Ursula jacket, and it's got princess seams galore! Front & back, plus the side seams and center backs... and that's on the shell and the lining. Seams *everywhere!* The shell is made from some olefin chenille, so it won't take much heat at all before melting. I've pressed the S/As as best as I could, but they still won't lie flat/open. I am thinking of stitching in the ditch along every seam, so the garment doesn't poof apart when wearing, but that won't help the S/As lie smoothly. (I usually use fabrics you can iron the heck out of, so this stumps me!)

What can I do? Should I trim them way back and overcast the edges? Will it help if they're smaller?



Thanks!

[LadyShadow]

Usually on darker fabrics, where the stitching hides a bit more, I will sew the sides down near the stitching lines.  So that it is the seam and then you see a stitched line next to it where I hold down the seam allowance.

[LordPaulet]

Have you tried a pressing cloth?
On the fabrics that want to melt on me I can usually get away with placing a pressing cloth on.  I had this acetate ribbon that wouldnt do anything without melting...even with a light pressing cloth...I had to use a piece of duck as a pressing cloth and steam the heck out of it

[gem]

Thanks!

Yup, LP--I had my wool ham + terry cloth towel + olefin shell + more towel or 2 layers of heavy linen. I found the hottest temperature that wouldn't melt the fabric, and then steamed the heck out of it. It lay flat for about a minute, and then popped up again. I even tried pinning the S/As in place overnight... nada. I have *never* had a fabric that so resist pressing!

Finally I just graded them way back, and now I'm stitching in the ditch along the princess seams to hold everything together. (shrug)

The nice thing is that the fabric *washes* beautifully, and comes out of a warm dryer looking perfect (no wrinkles whatsoever), so it'll be easy to take care of, at least!  (Which is good, because it's a white jacket!).

[Elennare]

Maybe get it professionally pressed?  After construction is done, probably, since I have no idea if anywhere would press an unfinished garment.  I've had a couple things that didn't want to lay nicely, but had no issues after getting pressed.

[LadyStitch]

Did you try the "Fire and Ice" technique? It is what one of co-horts called it when working with stubborn seams.  You would use pressing cloths to steam the heck out of something and just as it get's to the point of too hot,  you quickly slap a block of wood that is wrapped in a towel that has been in the freezer for the past 15 minutes on it. 
When I have had stubborn seams that will not stay sharp I will use this technique.  Since you are playing with fire getting you fabric that close to over heating, but if it works don't knock it.  Then again if it works for blacksmiths why can't it work for us too?

[gem]

LadyStitch, I LOVE that idea!  I actually pressed and steamed the heck out of it (and don't know why I didn't think of spritzing it with water until just this very second), and it turned out fine.  But in my life as a needlewoman, I've had stitching projects with stubborn wrinkles or hoop marks that wouldn't press out, and the solution has been to get them wet, block them, and stick them in the freezer! For some reason, it gets the wrinkles/hoop marks out.

[LadyStitch]

People wonder why I keep a towle wrapped block of wood in my freezer. When I tell them what I do they get a "Why didn't I think of that" look.   I used it to get really sharp corners on my pleather work this summer. My actresses said they never had a pleather garmet have such a "sharp" look to it before. 

Just keep in mind this technique SETS those creases in. Trying to re-iron out a goof up using this technique is a a serious pain, but I will tell you it does work.

[gem]

Wow--I don't know that I'd want pleather in the same *room* as my iron! You're a brave, brave woman.

I have always wondered why you can never get out the wrinkles you accidentally iron *in* to your fabric/clothes! What is up with that?!

[LadyStitch]

I had a couple "%&%*^*"  momment where it slipped a little BUT the pleather was suppose to look like weather worned "battle" dress anyway.  Add in that after 4 wearings (we do 27 performances +4 run throughs)  You honestly couldn't tell the difference between where the battle scars were and the natural creases from wearing.
I will tell you this, iron was kept on the other side of the room from the pleather when no in use and I was EXTREAMLY careful.  I think it was just my tutor telling me, everything can be pressed it is just how you do it.

I haven't the foggies why you can't get those out. All I have to say is, I am glad for over skirts because they can hide bad pressing.