Sleeve Question: Authenticity/Cartridge Pleating help

[nliedel]

My cartrigdge pleats, which I've never done before and may get scrapped because I get frustrated, will only be in the back. The front will be very smooth. I'm using a twill for the lining so it does push out some. It's not going to be nearly as full as an upper class woman's dress would be.

[operafantomet]

Operafan, I've always assumed that the skirt in the last picture (the woman in red, with purple sleeves) is cartridge pleated.  The other pictures, I'm not so sure. They look more like rolled pleats or stuffed pleats (don't know the proper name for those) to me.

Cartridge pleating (and I'm sure you know this) is essentially very tight, tidy, measured gathers, and they're fixed to the waistband in such a way that the skirt really stands out.  You can see them in this picture.

OK, thanks! It's what I thought cartridge pleats was, but I figured there might be nuances that separated them from for example gathers or other versions of... making much fabric take less space...

I have a costume design sketch for another character from "Ever after". I don't remember where I found it (I think it might have been in the web site of the designer or workshop). It shows how various portraits served as inspiration for the finished dress, resulting in an eclectic (=mixing various sources on purpose) style.



The portrait to the left is Florentine Maddalena Doni by Raphael, ca. 1505/06.
The top left is Elisabetta Gonzaga from Urbino, by Raphael or his workshop, ca. 1502
Underneath we have "La Schiavona" from the Veneto, by Tiziano, ca. 1510/11
Last one, "Lucrezia", is also from the Veneto, by Lorenzo Lotto ca. 1528/30

So you see there is a variety in area and timeline they've borrowed elements from (whoa, crappy English...). I'm guessing the same applies for most other costumes. 

[nliedel]

Oh wow, Operafantomet, I've never seen some of those. Wow!!!

[operafantomet]

Oh wow, Operafantomet, I've never seen some of those. Wow!!!

Glad you liked it! Do you mean the portraits or the costume design? It's unfortuneately the only "Ever After" costume design I have, but if you want to take a closer look at the original portraits they can be found here:

MADDALENA DONI: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/firenze1/raphael1506.jpg
ELISABETTA GONZAGA: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/urbino/raphael1502urbino.jpg
LA SCHIAVONA: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia1/tizianschiavona1511.jpg
"LUCREZIA": http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia1/lotto1530.jpg

[nliedel]

The costume design. I thought I was done, but man, after seeing that...help I am addicted to Ren Dresses.

[gem]

My cartrigdge pleats, which I've never done before and may get scrapped because I get frustrated, will only be in the back. The front will be very smooth. I'm using a twill for the lining so it does push out some. It's not going to be nearly as full as an upper class woman's dress would be.

Have you seen Silverstah's Campi dress?  It shows how cartridge pleats with a lighter-weight fabric (in her case, linen) can actually have quite *modest* fullness

[verymerryseamstress]

Nancy (and everyone else), as a replacement to zip ties, give this a try:

http://www.cheeptrims.com/store/item.asp?Category=&SubCategoryID=&GroupID=&SKU=JGQ%2D649025%2D990C

For most people, this is a lifetime supply.  And at $16 for 200 yards, it's much less expensive (in the long run) than zip ties, without any plastic waste going into the landfills because you can trim it to exactly the length you like (as opposed to having to cut off the plastic nubbin on the zip ties).  Cheep Trims does have a $60 minimum order, but if anyone wants to order, let me know.  I usually order every 2-3 months and would be happy to add a roll to the order for anyone who would like some. 

[nliedel]

Nancy (and everyone else), as a replacement to zip ties, give this a try:

http://www.cheeptrims.com/store/item.asp?Category=&SubCategoryID=&GroupID=&SKU=JGQ%2D649025%2D990C

For most people, this is a lifetime supply.  And at $16 for 200 yards, it's much less expensive (in the long run) than zip ties, without any plastic waste going into the landfills because you can trim it to exactly the length you like (as opposed to having to cut off the plastic nubbin on the zip ties).  Cheep Trims does have a $60 minimum order, but if anyone wants to order, let me know.  I usually order every 2-3 months and would be happy to add a roll to the order for anyone who would like some. 

In the future I will,  but hubby is a computer nerd and he just found a huge box of them he didn't know he had. Why the super thick size, I'll never know.

[nliedel]

My cartrigdge pleats, which I've never done before and may get scrapped because I get frustrated, will only be in the back. The front will be very smooth. I'm using a twill for the lining so it does push out some. It's not going to be nearly as full as an upper class woman's dress would be.

Have you seen Silverstah's Campi dress?  It shows how cartridge pleats with a lighter-weight fabric (in her case, linen) can actually have quite *modest* fullness

I've looked at that dress about a million times now. I love it. My back story allows for a bit more middle middle class, if that makes sense. NExt year I may go for something more like that dress. It's scrummy.