What is your favorite style chemise?

[Lady Gregory]

Of course, depending on your class, it will vary, but basically what is your go to chemise?  Do you prefer white or natural (or even fun colors), drawstring or elastic neckline (or structured) and/or wrists, and if you wear a detachable sleeve, what style cuff? 

Please specify what class you portray while wearing such chemise and any other info I may have forgotten to ask.  Pictures would be wonderful too.  Gramercy.

[gem]

Oh, goodness. You need this thread: Chemise Eye Candy

I'm not sure I can pick a single favorite style; I love all my chemises for various reasons, but I can answer a couple of your specific questions.

In all cases, I prefer elastic to drawstrings. Gathers are a PITA on the best of days; elastic keeps them looking perfect no matter what you put them through. My favorite chemises all have them. YMMV, however; I've heard people make the exact opposite comment!

My personal favorite chemise in my collection is this one, from Ophelia's:



It's made of bright white textured rayon that looks like whitework, with a wide ruffle above the elastic neckline, and puffed angel wing sleeves. There's nothing historically accurate about any of that--but (IMO) the fabric and the fanciful cut are *reminiscent* of the mid-period Italian fashion for more elaborate chemises. (See Anea's gallery, linked in the thread mentioned above). In practical considerations, this is enormously comfortable to wear, especially on hot days. The bright white reflects the sun and the rayon is cool, breezy, and wicks like linen. But my favorite thing is just how beautiful and feminine it is. (I have a similar full-length chemise from Ophelia's in a gold-shot ivory cotton gauze that also gets a lot of wear; it doesn't look quite as upscale as the rayon.)

For years, my "everyday" chemise has been this:

Which was actually made by another forum member about ten years ago! It's white cotton broadcloth with raglan sleeves and elastic in the neck and cuffs, which are edged with black serging.

It's full-length, which in general I prefer, because I find them more versatile, and the long sleeves give me the option of wearing gown sleeves over, or of layering my partlet atop (see my avatar) for chilly days. The touch of black gives it just a little interest. I like that this goes with everything.

I also really, really like my partlet, so I'm now making myself a high-necked smock (you can see some really beautiful examples in this thread). I like having a collar, and I love the different looks you can get by wearing it open or closed.

I have actually lost count of how many chemises I have (I think it's over ten and includes various pieces of white, ivory, red, orange, green, and burgundy), but these are my favorite basics! I think chemises are loads of fun and a great opportunity to add subtle interest to an ensemble. Sure, most of it gets covered up by the rest of your gown/garb, but you can say the same thing about modern mundane undergarments, too! Every woman likes pretty underthings.

edited to fix link & because I'm not sure what "angle wing sleeves" would be! LOL

[isabelladangelo]

I prefer the historical styles.  So white or natural in color and out of linen is possible.  I still have a couple of cotton ones but I love the linen ones or the linen/cotton blend ones. 

Elastic rots rather quickly so I used ribbon when I first started out.   Drawstrings work really well for a variety of styles.  Now, I've gone to the gathered and sewn to a strip of linen style that was done in period.   

http://www.festiveattyre.com/p/how-to-make-easy-italian-chemise.html  <- one of my favorite styles and an easy pattern to follow

[Lady Renee Buchanan]

I have about 18 actual chemises, plus several mundane shirts that look very similar to chemises and could be used for such.

I have floor length and hip length, depending on how the weather is, that's how I choose.

I have white, beige, red, 2 shades of yellow, gold, black, maroon, lime green (for my Moresca frou-frou).  Some of them have ruffles around the neck, others just have a drawstring (not my favorite, prefer elastic), my noble chemise has buttons.  A couple have embroidery.  The sleeves vary from full length gathered at the wrist, short pouffy sleeves, some with long sleeves that have 2 gathers along the arm, others with the angel wing sleeves that gem described.

And I have 2 different fabrics waiting to be made into chemises.

This is my favorite garb, the Moresca Cleo (which I call frou-frou), so it's not the fanciest chemise I own, but I love the whole garb together.

[Lady Gregory]

Thanks, ladies.  It is funny how some prefer elastic and others drawstring.  I do not own a drawstring, but am interested in trying one out.  

Gem, I have emailed Ophelia's inquiring about one of their chemises, but have not heard back from her.  I imagine she is busy with faire and unfortunately, she is not at any of the faires I attend.  I am also dying for a partlet.  It is def one of my future purchases.

Isabella, I absolutely love the lines of that Italian camicia.  Thanks for the link.  Maybe that will be a winter project for me.  I have had some elastic rot, but not all.  I figure by the time it rots, I will be sick of the piece anyway.  I do love the look and accuracy of the drawstring, although I have yet to try one.  And, yes, I do love and prefer linen.

Lady Renee, I have a feeling it won't be long before I catch up with you. There are so many styles I love, plus, like you said, the weather needs to be taken into consideration as well.  Like Gem said, they add just a subtle change to the look.  It's almost like new windows or a very subtle nose job.  You can't put your finger on it, but it adds that wow factor.

I love, love, love that Cleo outfit.  Someday I will own one. Such fun.  My dear friend just bought one in rust and brown.  It is gorgeous.

[stonebiscuit]

The best underlayer I've ever worn was made from this pattern:

http://www.elizabethancostume.net/smockpat/

I like it so much I'm making a dress out of it.

[isabelladangelo]

Actually, a drawstring appears to not be period.  They did tie the chemises but the necklines were always gathered to the desired opening and then they would stitch a bit of bias like tape around the gathered edge.  I hope that makes sense!   I've used drawstrings knowing they weren't accurate but they are quick.  ;-)

[gem]

If you can sew AT ALL and want a partlet, I would absolutely recommend making one yourself. It's an INCREDIBLY SIMPLE garment to construct, and I have rarely if ever seen any for sale... but I just went and checked etsy, and I'm seeing them run $40-70, WHICH IS OUTRAGEOUS.

I used the free pattern from Margo Anderson, and have seen other free patterns/diagrams around the web, as well.

***
I wore my black-edged chemise this weekend, and after almost ten years, it's really starting to show its age.  I think I'm going to have to replace it next season--and I'll definitely be going with linen. Not sure whether I want to continue with the same neckline, or go with something fixed (like a square-neck smock)--but I do want to keep the touch of black at the neckline and cuffs. Fortunately, I have a loooong time to make up my mind about what I want! (And I have an almost-complete linen smock I started for another project in the UFO pile. I just couldn't decide what kind of neckline I wanted on it--but I've now decided to start that one from scratch. So I think it needs to come out and get a little revamp.)

[Lady Gregory]

The best underlayer I've ever worn was made from this pattern:

http://www.elizabethancostume.net/smockpat/

I like it so much I'm making a dress out of it.

Thank you.  That looks awesome.  I would love to see the finished product, if possible.

[Lady Gregory]

Actually, a drawstring appears to not be period.  They did tie the chemises but the necklines were always gathered to the desired opening and then they would stitch a bit of bias like tape around the gathered edge.  I hope that makes sense!   I've used drawstrings knowing they weren't accurate but they are quick.  ;-)
[/quote

Ah, yes, that does make sense.  Thanks for the clarification. 

[Lady Gregory]

If you can sew AT ALL and want a partlet, I would absolutely recommend making one yourself. It's an INCREDIBLY SIMPLE garment to construct, and I have rarely if ever seen any for sale... but I just went and checked etsy, and I'm seeing them run $40-70, WHICH IS OUTRAGEOUS.

I used the free pattern from Margo Anderson, and have seen other free patterns/diagrams around the web, as well.

***
I wore my black-edged chemise this weekend, and after almost ten years, it's really starting to show its age.  I think I'm going to have to replace it next season--and I'll definitely be going with linen. Not sure whether I want to continue with the same neckline, or go with something fixed (like a square-neck smock)--but I do want to keep the touch of black at the neckline and cuffs. Fortunately, I have a loooong time to make up my mind about what I want! (And I have an almost-complete linen smock I started for another project in the UFO pile. I just couldn't decide what kind of neckline I wanted on it--but I've now decided to start that one from scratch. So I think it needs to come out and get a little revamp.)

I think I will make a partlet before the chemise.  It's been ages since I have sewn and all that fabric seems daunting.  I am working on sleeves right now, so the partlet should be the next logical step. 

I love your chemise with the black edging.  A nice high neck blackwork chemise would be a wonderful replacement.

[DonaCatalina]

I always make square neckline chemises. They are made to fit me and usally the neckline stays put around the neckline of the dress.
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x71/Dona_Catalina/Scarby%202009/SoloApril192009.jpg
That means I also get to embroider what I want around the neckline.

[stonebiscuit]

Thank you.  That looks awesome.  I would love to see the finished product, if possible.

I haven't got any pictures of it by itself, unfortunately. What pictures I have of it under the rest of my getup are here: https://whatisthisicanteven.wordpress.com/2012/06/25/more-esperanza-pictures/

[gem]

This is actually quite a nice view of it:

http://whatisthisicanteven.files.wordpress.com/2012/06/dancing-with-william1.jpg?w=1000&h=

And is that some black lace edging the sleeves?
https://whatisthisicanteven.wordpress.com/2012/06/25/more-esperanza-pictures/#jp-carousel-523

Lovely work!

(Really, the neckline and sleeves are all you ever see, anyway. Below that, all chemises are pretty much the same!)

I had totally forgotten about that smock generator! Must have Milord take measurements, and perhaps I'll give it a try.

Um. After the two shirts I'm making now, I mean.

[Lady Gregory]

I always make square neckline chemises. They are made to fit me and usally the neckline stays put around the neckline of the dress.
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x71/Dona_Catalina/Scarby%202009/SoloApril192009.jpg
That means I also get to embroider what I want around the neckline.

Beautiful work.  Love the embroidery.  I have my eye on a linen square neck shift with gold embroidery. I wish I had the time, and even more so, the talent.  It would be so much more cost effective.