Cartridge pleated sleeves?

[Trillium]

Enolate, we would love to see your cloak!  We all had to start somewhere!  Congratulations on a new skill and hobby.  It will soon take over all your spare time!

[Irma]

Enolate, we would love to see your cloak!  We all had to start somewhere!  Congratulations on a new skill and hobby.  It will soon take over all your spare time!

That's right.  One small stitch leads to another.  I even plan and sew projects in my sleep!

[gem]

Irma, I see you haven't gotten any replies yet on the Facebook group... I am hunting a photo I've pinned somewhere of in-progress CP sleeves, but no luck so far.

Maybe look again at Kate's picture (the silver) on the previous page. I can't tell for sure, but it almost looks like she simply abuts the sleeve to the sleeve cap edge, and you see the top edge of the pleats. Another photo of Kate-done CP sleeves is on this page of her website (photo #16, of the back of the black dress): http://www.jollydicey.co.uk/Jolly%20Dicey%20Costume/17th%20Century%20-%20King%27s%20Musketeers

And it really does look like they're just sitting there.

...And in this lengthy CP tutorial from Historical Sewing, she says

If your pleats are very wide on the inside, you can fold them to one side (check from the garment's right side to see which way you want them to lie) and tack down on top of each other on the inside. This will make them look more like flat knife pleats.

And there's a picture of what that looks like:



That seems like a wholly logical solution--you get the fullness and "classiness" of cartridge pleats, but without the thick ridge on the wrong side.

[Irma]

Thanks, GEM!  Those are some very helpful suggestions.  I'll have to do a couple of test sleeves to see what I like best.  That black gown is gorgeous!

[Enolate]

Enolate, we would love to see your cloak!  We all had to start somewhere!  Congratulations on a new skill and hobby.  It will soon take over all your spare time!

That's right.  One small stitch leads to another.  I even plan and sew projects in my sleep!

Not sure if I should post here or finished projects, but the green viney cloak is finished.



I used Burda 7333, but I added a liner. While I did all the work myself, my wife explained to me how to sew the liner and blind stitch in the ditch. The following are the "warts and all" of the mistakes I made.









All in all, I do feel pretty good about it, even though there are these imperfections. My goal was to learn and not get discouraged. I can at least state that I can't wait to start the next project.

Thanks for the encouragement!

[isabelladangelo]

It looks great for a first project!  Technically, it probably should go in the Gallery of Finished Projects thread.   But you can just double post it if you want. 

Also, trim hides many mistakes.  :-)

[Rowan MacD]

^^ditto the trim comment^^. Uneven hems, offset seams (it happens) fraying edges and 'unexpected gathers'  as well as any necessary top stitching that you may not want seen.
 
  When I make hats the hatbands also serve to cover any visible stitches where the crown is joined to the brim.  Hand stitching on Bias strips around the brim edge can be covered with lace or gimp.

[Ser Niall]

Not sure if I should post here or finished projects, but the green viney cloak is finished.



I used Burda 7333, but I added a liner. While I did all the work myself, my wife explained to me how to sew the liner and blind stitch in the ditch. The following are the "warts and all" of the mistakes I made.

First, cloak looks really nice.  Congrats on your successful project!

It leads me to a question though.  My seams tend to look like this too after adding the lining from "stitching in the ditch."  Experts, is there a way to avoid this?  Is this just something you have to get a feel for, or *gasp* hand stitch it?

[isabelladangelo]

You can pin it to make sure it's even before you sew - this helps a lot but it takes time.  Or you can hand sew - I just whip stitch the seams.  It takes about 15 minutes for the average neckline; 30 min for an average waistline. 

[Enolate]

My wife had suggested that I could either hand stitch or use the machine- but then I recall her saying life is to short to hand sew. So I can conclude that one can do it fast or do it fastidious but not both.