Cartridge Pleating. .A Modern Way to get that "Period" Look.

[WaywardWench]

My stitches always show and it was making me crazy!   I'm glad it's not just me.   

To wrap up and confirm:
1.  Embroidery floss (3 or more strands) is a good thread to sew skirts to waistband/bodices-tons of colors to choose from!
2.  2-3 stitches PER pleat to ensure strength
3.  Boost pleat stability with cotton duck, or thin batting (I use scrap fleece strips)
4.  1" gingham for even pleating
5.  Remove 2nd and 3rd row of pleating thread AFTER skirt is attached to waistband/bodice

What did I miss?!

Only sew the TOP loop of the pleat to the bottom of the waistband, right side to right side.
(I've seen only the bottom pleat sewn and the skirt looked really strange.)

[Marietta Graziella]

YES!  Good point to make.  Only sew the "top" side of the pleats. 

I can't even figure out how you'd wear it if you sewed the "bottom" side.   

[WaywardWench]

I wanted to say something to the lady. I could see she had worked so hard on a very pretty gown. I could think of no way to point out what I percieved as an error without sounding completely snarky.

I have seen the bottom attached to the bottom, but then the top is attached where it hits the middle of the waistband to give it more of the right angle effect.

[Kate XXXXXX]

This is the way I have done it, too.  I used carpet thread!  Bit like sewing with rope, but black on black really doesn't show...   

And as a quicky for stage use I have used  the light weight  curtain tape...  Roman Blind tape works well.

[Tixi]

i've used matching upholstery weight thread before with good results - and long strands of it definitely won't snap/break even with heavy fabrics

I've used matching colors, but clear might be nice, too, if such a thing exists

[Aunty Lou]

Unfortunately, the only clear thread I've ever seen in the retail shops is way too light to hold cartridge pleats, and fishing line may be strong enough, but it shows as a shiny glitter.  (Not bad if that's also in the fabric, but do you want glitter at the top of your pleat?)

[NicoleBridget]

I have a question for you seasoned seamstresses...I have a feeling it's a dumb one...but if fabric is 60" wide straight off the bolt, and you're not doing side gores, is there a need to cut it apart and sew it back together as panels?

[Kate XXXXXX]

Only if you want an opening up the centre back...

[Syrilla]

Because of weight and materials I normally sew my tops and bottoms to the waistband.  I do allow room on the band for this.  It also helps when I throw it in the washing machine to keep things straight.   

The use of panels is mostly for shaping the material, so you have less at the top than at the bottom.  If that is not an issue, then go ahead!  If I use panels it will be from a side seam area to a front side seam to allow room for the reducing bum roll at the front.  I can have some pretty big bum rolls.

[Margaret]

I am short, so if I use a fabric that I don't have to cut, I don't.

For example;  If my fabric for my skirt is a plain blue linen and 45" wide off the bolt, I just use it as it is.  That way I have the selvedge egdges and it saves me time by not having to finish the edge or hem it. 

I like that.   

[NicoleBridget]

Thanks girls.  I don't know why but I had it in my head that the "right" way to do this was always to panel it, so that's what I did for the project I'm currently working on.  Turned out that, after some mishaps in pre-washing, the pieces were too short and I ended up sewing them together the other way.  Yes, the way it came straight off the dang bolt.  *Slaps forehead*  Thanks for your input, I'm looking forward to not making so much unnecessary work for myself in the future!

[Marietta Graziella]

Remember, if your fabric suddenly seems too short, add a guard to the bottom.  A matching color, a contrast color, the same color!  Whatever you like.  It's H/A.  You can always put trim over the seam line.

[Tixi]

Guards are almost always a good idea anyway whenever they don't affect the overall theme too much
It's far easier to change out a guard (when they inevitably get dirty, torn, etc) than to have to replace the whole skirt.

[NicoleBridget]

Very good points, I hadn't thought of that!  Love your profile Tixi BTW...

[Tixi]

Very good points, I hadn't thought of that!  Love your profile Tixi BTW...

Aww that's very nice of you to say - thanks Nicole =)