Gallery of Finished Projects

[DonaCatalina]

Yay Gem!
It turned out beautifully and is even more striking on you than on the sewing table. The tabs work very well with the look.

[operafantomet]

Browsing through the last couple of pages here has been a feast for the eye! OMG, what stunning outfits you all have whipped up since I last visited. My old computer died, and with it all links and net activity I had, and I moved onto other platforms. But Isabella lured me back... 

I haven't really made all that much since last time. I've finished a long term project, though. It's the "Moda Romana", a dress in the Roman style ca. 1540-80. It's not different from the Florentine style in cut, but the Roman ladies are very often depicted in black and with a big golden veil on their head. Furthermore they wear no or very little jewelry. I used several portraits as inspiration, especially those of Vittoria Farnese, Giulia de' Medici/Ortensia de' Bardi and of Felice Orsina Colonna.

These portraits has, because of the veil, the dark dress and the lack of jewelry, been described as widows or nuns. But since the identity of several of these are known - showing female members of the prominent Roman families of Farnese, Colonna and Orsini, and since their portrait was painted as just engaged or just married, I realized the style has nothing to do with sorrow or celibacy. Instead it shows a simplified elegance with a touch of divinity (the golden veil), as would be fitting for women of the Holy city.

I have found two period sources mentioning that Roman style was a bit different:

"And she adorns herself with finery and vanity more than ever, and even this morning decided to go to Mass all decked out and with a golden veil on her head in the Roman style" (A Florentine courtier sighing of the behaviour of the new Duchess in the 1580s).

"You will need to dress them according to the custom here, I would advice you not to dress them in the Paduan way, and here they do not wear silk either, except for sarsenet in the summer. This is my opinion." (A father advising her daughter on how to dress her and her children when moving to Rome in 1575).


The portraits of Vittoria Farnese (left), Giulia de' Medici/Ortensia de' Bardi (middle), and "Lady with dog" (right).


With this in mind I used the patterns for two Florentine 1560s dresses as basis. They have bell shaped skirts, side/back laced bodices and square necklines. There are several references to (and extant examples of) the bodices being stiffened in various ways, and I decided to try out some of these. I used linen cardboard - one large piece for the front, and one for the back, cut into the exact shape of the bodice, only a bit smaller. I wrapped this in padded wool felt, covered it with interlining, and sandwiched this between the outer black velvet and the inner cotton lining. This worked remarkable well, and so far it gives the bodice a very good shape, and it seems to resist wear and tear. And believe it or not, but it's actually very comfortable. No chafing, no askew bodice when sitting. 

I also tried stiffening the hem, with wool felt and the (in)famous tuck. I know I've said this a gazillion times before, but it makes walking so much easier. With this done both to the skirt hem of the dress, and of the underskirt, it's like wearing a mini crinoline. I'm a BIG fan! This is also a period technique, found in several surviving dresses, and also seen in portraits (the tuck, I mean).

So, here's the "Moda Romana"; so far without the cutwork sleeves and the golden veil. I decided to use it around my waist instead the day I took these photos... But I will take new photos once the sleeves are done, with the golden veil on my head and probably with a white partlet, to get the full Roman look.

[gem]

Anea!!!!!! Where have you been?! WE MISSED YOU!!!! (flings herself atop Anea like a giant virtual puppy.)

Your Roman gown is absolutely lovely and elegant, and as always your research and knowledge is amazing. You're so generous to share it with the rest of us. ((hugs))

[DonaCatalina]

Awesome work. You do come up with some amazing gowns.

[isabelladangelo]

Yay!  Welcome back, Anea!   Love the dress.  My latest one isn't quite as lovely - however that's partly because the poor dear has been through a lot.

This was my first Renaissance gown that I've remade into something more wearable (1520's Venetian).


DSC04058 par Isabella, on ipernity

I took the faux overskirt front panels of the original dress to make the sleeves.  The bodice back is the same as the old dress but I remade the bodice front from scraps I still had around.  (I've wanted to remake this dress since about 10 minutes after I finished it!)  It looks much better than it did - the skirt is actually pretty full but it's very wrinkled in the photo.  I need to iron it.  Ugh. 

[Rowan MacD]

 Anea-Lovely work, as usual!

    The veil in the last portrait looks as though it is pinned or fastened to the shoulders of the gown... that would be handy for breezy days.

[Lady Rosalind]

Anthemis, plague doctor and walking (and jingling, and rattling) apothecary at your service.

OMG Love!!!  This looks amazing    You did a great job!

I totally agree! It turned out fabulously!! I love all the apothecary gear, and the leather mask (and its leathery color) is a really special touch.

***
I got to wear Side 1 of my new bodice this weekend!





I didn't get any photos of the back, unfortunately (after all these years, you'd think Milord would understand that it's all about photographing the *garb,* not just me. Snork!), but I am delighted with how the tabs turned out. The fit in the back is *perfect,* and I didn't have any skirt waistband issues at all. Huzzah!

The binding is microsuede, my favorite corset/bodice binding fabric, and it was done (egad) by hand. Not my first idea, but it turned out to be the best application. (Oh, the tabs were bound by machine. That would have been just silly!)

Special thanks to Christina (InsidiousRaven), who painstakingly photographed & measured her Moresca Max II for inspiration.

That's so CUTE!!!!!!!!!

[gem]

Thanks!  If you think that's cute, check out Side 2!



It accidentally matches the black middle-class skirt I made last year--down to the trim! The skirt has fawn pinked microsuede guards, and the bodice is bound with tan microsuede binding. I'm hoping next weekend will be cool enough to try the ensemble with my embroidered smock, for black/brown/cream deliciousness overload!

[Lady Rosalind]

Even cuter!!!!!!!!!!!

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

The Bodices came out just lovely Gem!

I think when there are subtle waist and shoulder treatments on Bodices, they look more finished.

[Rani Zemirah]

They really ARE lovely!  I love my reversible bodice, and wish I had at least one more!  I'm starting to feel a bit like a garb hoarder collector, now... even though I know I'm nowhere NEAR the capacity of some of you amazingly talented ladies (and the occasional gentleman or two in here, as well!)!!!  You all inspire me, even though it usually comes out in ways that involve less sewing and more crafting!   

[DonaCatalina]

Gem,
I don't know which one I like better!
They are both very pretty.

[The Wee Wench]

Thanks!  If you think that's cute, check out Side 2!



LOVE this bodice!

[isabelladangelo]

DSC04178 par Isabella, on ipernity

My Italian Turkish Garb!   I wore it today to MDRF.   It's very comfy and very period for the 16th Century.   The garb is all linen and I have pewter looking buttons down the front of the coat.   

[Rani Zemirah]

Pretty!  It looks very lightweight and airy!