New Project! Making a Nobles Gown From Scratch-and I need your help!

[LadySeasan]

ok! thank you sooo much ladies for your help! i will update once i get my new sewing machine and fabric
thanks again, you ladies are amazing

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Lady Season

My first Corset was made very much like this one 7 years ago...





I used the simple Corset pattern from Alter Years http://www.alteryears.com/  that can be made with or without tabs.

I used 3 layers of a heavy  Cotton Canvas Duck, in which I drew the boning channels. The inside and outside fabrics are usually Cotton Broadcloth or a nice print for something special, finishing off with Bias at the edges. For boning, I used the long Cable Ties that can be purchased in the Plumbing section of a Lowe's or Home Depot. They are 34" long adn come ina  package of 6. Back lacing with aded lace for that finished touch.

Hope this helps you in making your corset. The instructions are easy enough to follow as well as comprehend.

[Kate XXXXXX]

ok! thank you sooo much ladies for your help! i will update once i get my new sewing machine and fabric
thanks again, you ladies are amazing

Start a new thread, annd tell us about the new machine!   

[Cilean]

May I suggest something you will really enjoy? Every single year that you go to the Ren Faires?

www.margospatterns.com these patterns have the best information with them, they come with many variations, information on what type of fabrics to use. 

They are really some of the best patterns on the market.  I enjoy Kass McGanns www.Reconstructinghistory.com patterns as well, but they do not have as much information or variation within them.   I don't know if Ninya and Jane from Tudor Tailor will be making it to the US next year as they had hoped.  I am still hoping they will be and I have told them if they could to try to go to Costume Con 27 in Baltimore, because it would be great to speak with so many costumers from all over at once.

Any of these patterns (but especially Margo's) will help you to get the best beginning look to your garb making.

By the way? Welcome to the madness!
Cilean

[sealion]

I have to second the endorsement of Margo's patterns. They are not inexpensive but definitely worth the investment. You not only the pattern tissues but a very extensive instruction manual as well.

[Alisoun]

I agree.  I recently received my Margo's, and they are wonderful.  Aside from the information and tips, there is so much room to alter and customize depending upon your tastes.  However, my first corset was AlterYears, and it plays well with my garb from other sources.

[shaunalee]

Two things..if you don't need the support of bones you can use the plastic cross stich stuff between the lining and the fabric...if you want a real hour glass look and comfortable support make the bodice up to the point of top and bottom trim, top stich binding tape to the inside of the bodice at either side of the laces in front directly over the middle of breast, at the side seams and either side of middle back, stich around the top and then slide flat steel stays into the pockets and finish the bottom.  I prefer 3/8 inch flat steel as I'm rather busty and they do not bend in and poke when tightly laced.  I use a Simplicity pattern for civil war undergarmets and then lengthen the pattern a couple of inches.  This is a very simple corset, easy to alter, and very comfortable to wear when made with all the stays called for (22 total)

[Cilean]

First off if you want a great looking outfit (and who doesn't) trying to 'wing it' may not be the best thought, I see many people saying the same thing so may I also ask you to look over some patterns?

I have issues with patterns myself, so I would suggest Margo Anderson's Patterns.  Kass McGann's at Reconstructing History, has some pretty great patterns that might help you.

A gown for the Upper Echelon would have been the best that they could afford to have made for themselves, they would pay enormous amounts and it is because it was meant to impress.  So I do very much suggest you do look at the complete outfit. The outer gown is the TIP of the Elizabethan Iceberg. 

Pair of Bodyes, what we call a Corset is necessary along with the other underthings to create the best possible conical silhouette.


After seeing what you have done with your other gown, I am sure you can make a Noble Gown that is lovely and will lovely as well.

Good Luck
Cilean

[Miranda]

Margo makes a fairly good pattern, with some caveats.  Definitely make a mock up.  Bonus points if you can wrangle someone to fit it on you.  Margo's patterns do have some fitting issues depending on your body type.  This is good advice for any pattern, really, so get in the good habit of making a mock up now. This will save you lots of grief if things don't go the way you want them too, and you need to tweak things.  Tweaking a muslin is a lot less stressful, heart breaking, gut wrenching, what have you, than tweaking your velvet, brocade, or silk fashion fabric.
If you want a reasonably historical dress, avoid any Victorian type corsets, seriously they muck things up.  Victorians were all about the Hour Glass shape. Elizabethans were all about the inverted cone on cone shape.
You should build boning into your bodice even you are making a separate corset because it gives you a nice crisp wrinkle free garment.  That being said a corset will make your life easier, once you've gotten through the initial thoughts of "WHAT AM I DOING."  A separate corset puts the stress of smoothing any lumps, supporting the girls, (you know corset jobs) on the corset.  This reduces the strain on your bodice, which will make it wear better and last longer.  If you can muddle through them, I really recommend tabs on the bottom of the corset, they will be your best friend.  Tabs take the weight of the skirts off of your hips making for a much more comfortable costume wearing experience.  Cable ties are great for a first corsetry project (2nd and 3rd as well) because they don't require any specialized tools.

Farthingales are really worth the trouble, as they also help take the weight off of your lower body and sometimes serve to help keep you cooler.

In all honestly I think silhouette is paramount for first impressions.  It is what makes the eye say "that's Elizabethan, that's Tudor, that's Victorian."  You get silhouette right, and you've conquered the biggest part of the project.  I always want to start out with the pretty fabrics too, but build your undies first, then work your way out, and you will be a much happier camper.  Another plus, once you have your undies, you can build a whole wardrobe of pretty dresses to wear over them....undies are recyclable.